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1995 and 1994 Bordeaux (May 1996)

Very deep ruby-red. Pungent, inky, nutty aromas of blackcurrants and minerals; very sexy oak treatment gives the nose a wonderful sweetness. Big, minerally, and shapely, with lovely purity of dark berry flavor. Has clarity and grip, but not quite the richness of the ’95. The tannins build in the glass, but are in harmony with…

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Les Forts de Latour is one of many that I had not tasted for a decade. Now at 20 years old, it has a lovely, almost melted bouquet of black fruit laced with tar, cedar and pine, rose petal, occupying that liminal point between primary and secondary stages. The well-balanced palate offers a…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)

Good deep red. Slightly leafy aromas of currant, licorice and eucalyptus. Sweet, sexy flavors of currant, minerals and tobacco; comes across as more pliant than the 2002, with a suggestion of more merlot. But can’t quite match that wine for definition or grip.

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Clerc Milon is a very pretty, mature Pauillac. Dark fruit, leather, licorice, game, incense and tobacco give the 2005 a feeling of maturity. The 2005 is in a very pretty spot right now to offer fine drinking, but I would not push my luck, as the edges are starting to fray.

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Full ruby-red. Superripe, almost syrupy aromas of cassis, licorice, graphite and coffee. Full, seamless and sweet, with a ripeness verging on exotic; but this is fat with fruit. An outsized Clerc-Milon with a relatively high 13.2% alcohol but also very good energy in the mouth. Finishes with terrific breadth and substantial ripe tannins. This was…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Léoville Poyferré is a wine that I always enjoyed, though I have not tasted it for the last 10 years. The bouquet has mellowed in the interim, though it retains seductive, almost effervescent red fruit mixed with undergrowth, hung game, fresh mint and pine aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with a menthol-tinged opening….