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Power and Energy: The 2018 and 2017 Northern Rhônes (Apr 2020)

Saturated ruby. Deep-pitched dark fruit preserve, violet and licorice scents are accompanied by suggestions of smoky bacon and vanilla. Sweet and broad on the palate, offering pliant cassis, bitter cherry and spicecake flavors that turn spicier with aeration. In a ripe, generous style, showing solid, spicy thrust on a long, smooth finish framed by velvety…

2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

Sexy if reticent nose combines lemon, lime, grapefruit, mirabelle and smoky minerality. Lovely rich, spicy, floral wine with terrific intensity and exhilarating sweetness. Harmonious acidity gives this premier cru excellent balance and definition from the start. Finishes brisk, precise and very long, with an old-vines concentration. Jadot made about 40 barrels of this wine, which…

Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot Clos de la Chapelle 1er Cru, a monopole of Louis Jadot, has a rather odd banana-skin-tinged bouquet that lacks typicité. The palate is rounded and phenolic on the entry and attractive in its own way, revealing hints of vanilla and almond, yet it lacks the precision and tension on the finish…

2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

The 2014 d’Issan is plump, juicy and delicious. Torrefaction, smoke, licorice, plum, grilled herbs, leather and tobacco give the 2014 its racy, exuberant personality and considerable near-term appeal. This is an especially bold, rich Margaux, but it works nicely. Tasted two times.

Bordeaux 2014: The Southwold Tasting (Mar 2018)

The 2014 d’Issan has a comparatively simple and straightforward bouquet relative to its peers, a light marine influence evolving with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, well judged acidity, harmonious and precise with a sustained finish. But it does not want to put a foot wrong and consequently there is an air of…

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Château d’Issan has an open-knit, fresh bouquet with light, tobacco-tinged black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, understated and elegant in style with a Saint-Julien-like finish. Six years ago, the bottle suggested a better wine, indicating that it peaked in the interim. Tasted blind at the Southwold 10-Year-On tasting.