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Focus on Champagne (Nov 2003)

Extremely fine mousse Deep, musky aromas of grilled nuts, ginger, earth and minerals. This would be almost painful in its concentration were it not for the wine’s extraordinarily fine-grained texture. Extremely powerful but wonderfully ripe, with thick, sappy flavors of hazelnut, minerals and baking spices, plus a hint of toffee. Endless nutty, yeasty finishing flavors…

Krug: Clos du Mesnil 1979-1998 (Jul 2011)

The 1990 Clos du Mesnil captures the warmth and opulence of the year, yet preserves fabulous minerality and freshness. It is a beautifully balanced, harmonious wine that delivers on so many levels. There is plenty here to satisfy both the intellectual and purely hedonistic senses. Layers of fruit build effortlessly to the seamless, glorious finish….

Rioja: The Past Is Always Present (Apr 2021)

Limpid red. An intensely perfumed bouquet evokes raspberry, cherry cola, potpourri and exotic spices, with a vanilla topnote and a smoky mineral flourish. Sweet and focused in the mouth, offering sappy red fruit, spicecake, mocha and rose pastille flavors that flesh out on the back half. Finishes very long and spicy, with a resonating floral…

Big Love for Loire (Jul 2020)

From a parcel named after Philippe Vatan’s two daughters, and aged 20 months in old foudres. Dark red with garnet tints. Complex, deep nose of forest floor, spices, fallen leaves, burning leaves and plenty of blueberry and plum. On the palate, elegant and rich, offering juicy fruit, cherry and olive, framed by lean, straight tannins…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Bourgogne Le Clos du Château has a tightly wound bouquet that needs a little more fruit intensity; it’s too Zen-like at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with a fine bead of acidity, moderate weight and a slightly attenuated finish that leaves me wanting a bit more.

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

The 2015 La Gaffelière is a wine of total finesse. Much less obvious and overt than most Saint-Émilions in this vintage, La Gaffelière makes its case on harmony and grace above all else. Bright, lifted Cabernet Franc–infused aromatics give the 2015 striking freshness and aromatic presence. The flavors are bright and nuanced to the core,…