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2008 and 2007 Red Burgundies (Mar 2010)

Good medium red. Reticent aromas of red berries and minerals, with an overlay of spicy oak. Large-scaled, creamy-sweet and rich; a real essence of pinot noir. Wonderfully suave and spherical wine with intriguing minerality and lovely length. Showing a good bit of smoky oak today, which Liger-Belair says is typical for this wine in the…

2012 & 2013 Napa Valley: Too Close to Call (May 2024)

The 2013 Opus One impresses with its mid-palate density, power and richness. It’s also a drop-dead gorgeous beauty that is starting to drink well now that the bouquet has opened and some of the tannic heft has melted away. There’s still plenty of power and structure, but all the elements are so nicely balanced. All…

Santa Cruz Mountains – California’s Hidden Gem (Nov 2023)

The 2021 Zinfandel Pagani Ranch is a wine of tremendous stature. Vertical and composed in bearing, the 2021 has a ton to offer, but is also a bit reserved today. Time in the glass brings out a mesmerizing range of red/purplish fruit, spice, cedar, new leather, tobacco, mocha and dried flowers. Pagani Ranch remains a…

2022 Mosel-Saar-Ruwer: Old Vines and Steep Challenges (Oct 2023)

The 2022 Riesling Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese opens with a notion of baked peach, especially baked peach skin, aromatic, slightly caramelized with concentrated fruit. Peach compote sweeps onto the palate, ripe and still with bite, just as cooked peach flesh appears, expressive and sweet but not overdone. This entire flight is a lesson in restraint. The…

2022 Mosel-Saar-Ruwer: Old Vines and Steep Challenges (Oct 2023)

The 2022 Riesling Graacher Himmelreich Spätlese is rather closed. Distant fruit appears as though behind glass where you can see but not touch. The palate is a juicy, rounded but tingling picture of tangerine. Aromatic, deliciously tart but wonderfully ripe, with that scented, balancing, zesty tang of tangerine peel. The 2022 shows poised balance, sweetness,…

Never a Dull Vintage in the Northern Rhône (Dec 2022)

Glass-staining ruby. A highly complex, expansive bouquet evokes fresh dark berries, olive paste, potpourri and incense, along with exotic spice and smoky mineral notes that build steadily with air. Sweet, focused and penetrating on the palate, offering intense, spice-accented cassis, boysenberry, cherry preserve, smoky bacon, olive and violet pastille flavors that are braced by a…