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Cellar Favorites: Château Latour – New Releases (Jul 2016)

The 2000 Latour is an attractive wine, although I would have like to see a little more freshness, especially in the aromatics, for such a young Grand Vin. Round, creamy tannins give the 2000 much of its seamless, open-knit personality. Spice, leather, dark cherry and plum take on exotic shades of expression. With time in…

Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020 (May 2021)

The 2020 Cheval Blanc has a limpid deep people hue with noticeable tears in the glass. The bouquet demands several minutes to really open, delivering a payload of intense black cherry and blueberry fruit, pressed violet, a hint of licorice and crushed stone. The palate is medium-bodied with finely chiseled tannins, and quite dense and…

Thrice Is Nice: Bordeaux 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Cheval Blanc contains a little more Merlot than other vintages, probably anomalous to other estates on the Right Bank. This was bottled at the beginning of July. It has almost clinical delineation on the nose. The 2020 is extremely well-focused, with subtle pressed iris and violet scents embroidered into the predominantly black fruit…

Bordeaux 2020: Saving the Best for Last (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Cheval Blanc is eternal, seamless and exceptionally beautiful. All the elements are so well put together. Rose petal, blood orange, raspberry jam and cinnamon all take shape in the glass. Above all else, the 2020 Cheval Blanc is a wine of mind-blowing balance. Hints of mocha, raspberry jam, pomegranate and spice emerge with…

Variations on a Theme: Burgundy 2020 Whites (Jul 2024)

The 2020 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru has an attractive bouquet with melted candle wax, yellow plum and lanolin aromas. I appreciate the typicité in this Corton Charlemagne, and it is well-defined. It’s one of the most intellectual aromatics that you have to sit and ponder. The palate is taut and fresh. There’s a clever reduction at…

2014 Barolo: Late Releases (Nov 2018)

Roberto Conterno opened the 2013 Barolo Cerretta as a comparison with the 2014. Powerful, dense and incredibly tannic, the 2013 is a potent, classically austere Barolo that will only soften with time. The only question is how much. Sage, licorice and rose petal overtones start to emerge with air, but readers should not be thinking…