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Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Carruades de Lafite has a generous bouquet with “playful” red berry fruit, liquorice and cassis. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins, plush and rounded in texture. It just comes across a little blocky on the finish when I am seeking more tension and delineation. This bottle questions the longevity of this Second…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Deep ruby. Perfumed aromas of cassis, violet and graphite minerality. Pure, very fresh dark berry and mineral flavors carry through the long, refined, almost dainty finish. The tannins are impressively silky for a second wine, but this nonetheless shows a hint of astringency at the back, which may be resolved with time in bottle.

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The 1988 Petrus fooled me when served blind. Its opulence tricked me into thinking it was the Le Pin tasted alongside. This might be partly because this came from magnum. It has a gorgeous nose, more expressive than the bottle at the Petrus vertical, with veins of blue fruit and iodine, thyme and sous-bois. Quite…

Champagne Update (Nov 2006)

(disgorged March 15, 2006) Light gold. Dramatic aromas of ripe peach, pear, mango, musky yellow plum, fig, buttery brioche, toasted nuts and baking spices. Rich, deep and expansive on the palate, with powerful, deeply concentrated flavors of yellow peach, tropical fruit, toasted nuts, sweet butter, toffee and marzipan utterly filling the mouth. An endless parade…

The 2019 Champagne Summer Preview (Jul 2019)

The 1996 R.D. (2007 disgorgement) is, not surprisingly, more advanced than the 2012 disgorgement tasted alongside. Orange peel, hazelnut and coffee overtones all flesh out in an ample, full-bodied R.D. that is fully mature. I prefer the younger disgorgement here as the 2007 disgorgement is starting to fray at the edges.

The 2019 Champagne Summer Preview (Jul 2019)

The 1996 R.D. (2012 disgorgement) is in a gorgeous spot right now. A stunning set of aromas and flavors have developed in bottle, making the 1996 a real treat to taste and drink at this stage. Scents of coffee, hazelnut, honey, dried flowers, menthol and candied orange peel all lift from the glass. Mature and…