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1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full red with an amber rim. Subdued aromas of plum, redcurrant, truffle and milk chocolate, plus a faint medicinal aspect. Solid and chunky, but with slightly sour acids limiting its appeal. I found the same slight tartness on the finish, which showed good but not outstanding length. This wine was the writers’ and collectors’ favorite…

Passing the Baton: Lynch-Bages 1945-2018 (Jul 2023)

I tasted the 1982 Lynch-Bages twice within a month, both at a private dinner in London and at the château, from bottle and double-magnum on separate occasions. Both vindicate an exceptionally fine 1982, perhaps a bit overlooked in a vintage full of stars. Curiously, the bottle in Bordeaux does not fully deliver the mesmerizing freshness…

Cellar Favorite: 1985 Cheval Blanc (Sep 2024)

It has been several years since I last tasted the 1985 Cheval Blanc. When this was poured, a guest enquired whether I liked it, to which I replied: “It’s Cheval Blanc…It’s 1985…Of course!” Now, approaching four decades old, I suspect the 1985 will not improve further, except in a larger format. This bottle shows minor…

Survive Us All: Latour 1858-2018 (Feb 2024)

The 1975 Latour is a vintage that I have drunk several times, and, to be frank, I consider it a bit overrated by some fellow scribes. That’s not to imply it is a bad wine, far from it. It’s still giving pleasure, and this represents the best example I have encountered, even better than a…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Chasse-Spleen offers attractive blackberry, briary, cedar and pinecone aromas on the Pauillac inspired nose. Good intensity here. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, a fine bead of acidity with another graphite-infused, quite sharp finish. Very fine. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners 10-Year On Bordeaux horizontal.

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

Saturated, bright ruby. Typically sexy, flamboyantly rich aromas of dark berries, candied cherry, smoke and sweet pipe tobacco. Sweet, lush and deep, showing good clarity and lift to its raspberry, black cherry and tobacco flavors. Finishes with mounting, somewhat harsh tannins. I am a huge fan of Chasse-Spleen (the 1962 is a marvel, for instance)…