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A Century – Not Out: Talbot 1919-2010 (Oct 2019)

The 1996 Talbot comes from an era when I think this Saint-Julien lost its way a little. It was picked from 16 September until 12 October with intermittent breaks to avoid showers. It has a relatively light bouquet with tertiary black fruit, cedar and incense, gaining a little vigour with aeration although it never fully…

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The bottle of 1989 Haut-Brion poured in Hong Kong is unquestionably the best I have encountered in recent years. Youthful in hue, it has a breathtaking bouquet with stunning definition, a mixture of shimmering black fruit, crushed stone, black truffle and graphite. The palate is multi-faceted with unerring complexity, yet the freshness, frisson and energy…

Champagne: 2017 New Releases (Dec 2017)

Bollinger’s 2007 Brut La Grande Année is quite pretty. Elegant, restrained and understated in style, the 2007 is one of the more delicate young Grande Années I can remember tasting. Mid-weight structure and silky texture only reinforce that impression. Lemon oil, red berry, dried flowers and chamomile open up nicely, but it is the wine’s…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Réserve de la Comtesse has a tight, broody bouquet that feels a little thin compared to its peers in this flight. Red berry fruit, brown spices and iron filing scents only reluctantly emerge, gradually adding weight and in the end the aromatics are very satisfying. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins and…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Good bright red-ruby. Expressive aromas of black cherry, chocolate, game, menthol and licorice are lifted by a floral topnote. Began a tad tart in the mouth, but grew suppler with air while maintaining good grip to its high-pitched flavors of black raspberry, black cardamom and flowers. Not a particularly ripe 2010 but sexy, energetic and…

Chablis: 2014 & 2013 (Aug 2015)

Pale, bright yellow-green. Stone fruits and a minty nuance on the nose and palate. Supple and on the soft side, showing noteworthy richness for this village offering. Fuller than it appeared to be from barrel a year ago but with its rather low acidity and touch of warmth, this will be best suited for drinking…