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In a Tuscan State of Mind (Aug 2013)

The 2009 Flaccianello is gorgeous, but the relative shortcomings of the year relative to the sublime 2010 are apparent when the wines are tasted side by side. Firm tannins support a core of dark red fruit, smoke and crushed flowers. Readers will need to give the 2009 time to settle down, but it is unquestionably…

Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Mouton Rothschild has a magnificent bouquet that gradually unfolds in the glass to reveal blackberry, iodine, touches of crushed violet and then, with time, that gorgeous mintiness, just like you get in the 1945 (not that this is the 1945). The palate is beautifully balanced with a lattice of fine, succulent tannins, pure…

Bordeaux 2019: The Southwold Tasting (Feb 2023)

The 2019 Mouton-Rothschild is more backward on the nose, graphite and pencil shavings infusing the black fruit, broody at first yet gaining intensity in the glass with each swirl. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, fine depth, lightly spiced with a vibrant, slightly peppery finish. Impressive weight and length and unequivocally, a long-term…

2019 Bordeaux from Bottle: The Two Towers (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Mouton Rothschild has come together beautifully since I tasted it from barrel. Today, it is unquestionably one of the wines of the vintage. Powerful and statuesque in its beauty, Mouton is remarkable in every way. Layers of dark-toned fruit confer seriousness and intensity that builds with time. All of the finesse I saw…

2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

A pretty, open-knit wine, the 2012 La Conseillante is quite expressive today. Dark cherry, plum, smoke, new leather, cedar and cloves flesh out in the glass. Supple, racy and inviting, the 2012 is an attractive, mid-weight Conseillante built on harmony and textural finesse. There is plenty to like, although I would have liked to see…

Bordeaux 2012: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (May 2013)

(89% merlot and 11% cabernet franc): Medium-deep purple-ruby. Pungent minerality lifts subtle, very pure aromas of red fruits, violet, wet stone, ink and cinnamon. Dense, vibrant, sharply delineated flavors of blackcurrant, raspberry, sweet spices and cocoa powder make for a memorable experience. Subtle violet and flint notes lift and extend the very long, minerally, suavely…