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The 2022 Champagne New Releases (May 2022)

The 2015 Extra-Brut Grand Vintage is a terrific choice for drinking now, as it is so expressive. Baked apple tart, spice, lemon confit, marzipan and a hint of toastiness are front and center. Open-knit and engaging, the 2015 is a Champagne of pure and total pleasure.

1998 and 1997 Red Burgundies (Mar 2000)

Good medium-deep red. Complex aromas of raspberry, cinnamon, mocha, spice, smoke and beefsteak tomato. Spicy, velvety and mouthfilling; not quite as fine as the estate ’96 but thick and rich. Has just enough acidity to maintain its balance. Finishes with lush tannins and very good length.

Domaine des Lambrays’ Clos des Lambrays 1966-2012 (Apr 2019)

Very ripe aromas of dark fruits, cinders, spices and earth, along with strong torrefaction notes of coffee and mocha; there’s something here that’s dulling the fruit. More pristine in the mouth than on the nose, but showing obvious evolution to its flavors of black fruits, iron and brown spices. Plenty of thickness here but lacks…

Passing the Baton: Lynch-Bages 1945-2018 (Jul 2023)

The 2006 Lynch-Bages has an airy bouquet, open but missing the same fruit intensity as other vintages. Light wild hedgerow, bilberry and touches of seaweed emerge but never fully get into fifth gear. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly rigid tannins that frame the dusky black fruit. More austere than vintages from this era, it…

Cellar Favorite: 1990 Château Latour (Nov 2019)

Tasting the 1990 Latour is like running into a long-lost friend. Still dark, deep and spectacularly flamboyant, the 1990 possesses remarkable textural richness from the very first taste. Time in the glass brings out a whole range of pencil shaving, dark fruit, chocolate, licorice and spice flavors, but more than anything else, the 1990 is…

In Excelsis: Château Latour 1887 – 2010 (Jul 2018)

The 1990 Latour is a First Growth intent on giving as much pleasure as ‘vinously’ possible. Undeniably, there is quite a bit of brettanomyces on the nose that renders this the most animally and feral of Château Latour wines in recent years and yet you cannot help but fall for its almost garish charms. Underneath…