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Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Cheval Blanc has an attractive nose with brambly red fruit, sous-bois, a pencil box and a touch of Xmas cake. It does not take too much aeration before it develops further aromas of black truffle and morels. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, fleshy, ripe and tensile with red peppercorn hints toward…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Branaire-Ducru is every bit as captivating as it was en primeur. Ripe, silky tannins give the 2018 a striking air of sensuality that only grows as the wine sits in the glass. Succulent red/purplish fruit, lavender, rose petal, mint, spice and gravel inflections all open more over time. Even with all of its…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Branaire-Ducru was picked from September 19 until October 10 at 53hl/ha and is currently being aged in 60% new oak. It has retained the sophisticated bouquet that I found last year, featuring beautifully defined blackberry and cedar and hints of iris flower and rose petals. The palate is well defined with good density…

The Riches and Richness of Chateauneuf-du-Pape (Dec 2019)

Brilliant ruby. Ripe cherry and red berries on the deeply perfumed nose, along with hints of smoky minerals and potpourri. Palate-staining cherry and raspberry liqueur flavors show impressive clarity and depth, and a spine of juicy acidity provides lift and focus. Finishes extremely long and sweet, delivering solid thrust, a hint of candied flowers and…

Margaux Focus 1: Château Durfort-Vivens (Aug 2023)

The 2005 Durfort-Vivens is definitely one of the superior contributions this decade. It has a dense and intense bouquet with blackberry, mint and loamy scents. Perhaps just a bit charmless? The palate is tannic with dark fruit, a little austere but with an insistent grip and backbone. It is what you might call a “solid”…

2019 Bordeaux from Bottle: The Two Towers (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Lafite-Rothschild is a mesmerizing wine that shows how compelling the vintage is on the Left Bank. Elegant, creamy and exquisitely layered, the 2019 Lafite conquers all the senses. There is tremendous density and power that belies the 12.8% alcohol, but then again, that can be the magic of Bordeaux. Classic Lafite red plum…