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2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 d’Issan was matured in 50% new oak and bottled in June. This displays admirable vivacity on the nose, mainly red-fruited, with clove, a touch of mocha and hints of pencil shavings surfacing with time in the glass–well-defined and “correct”. The palate is pliant on the entry with a slight creaminess to the texture….

2021 Bordeaux: L’Enfant Terrible (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Montrose is an inward, brooding wine—classic Montrose, in other words, just attenuated in its intensity by the cool growing season. Spice, tobacco, cedar, menthol, scorched earth, gravel and a touch of new oak open over time, but the 2021 is really a wine that requires considerable cellaring to reach its potential. Then again,…

2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Montrose is not dissimilar to the sample I tasted from barrel two years earlier. It eschews the more complex and, one might say, “ambitious” aromatic profiles seen in recent years (for example, the spectacular 2020) and delivers a more streamlined version. Blackberry, crushed iris flower, graphite and light autumn leaf aromas become prettier…

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Good bright red-ruby. Cassis, black cherry, violet, licorice and herbs on the perfumed nose. Then a bit tart and tough in the mouth, with black fruit and licorice flavors accented by pungent pepper and aromatic herb nuances. Slightly gritty tannins clash with strong acidity on the finish, giving the wine a lightly sour edge and…

The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Pavillon Rouge de Château Margaux has a lovely, open nose with more red than black fruit, cedar and undergrowth, touches of black pepper. Good vigour here. The palate is well balanced with sappy red fruit, though because of the vintage, it feels a little monotone and slightly underripe on the finish, doesn’t quite…

2015 Beaujolais: Monumental But Often Atypical (Dec 2017)

Deep vivid ruby. Mineral-accented blackberry, cherry and licorice aromas are complemented by a sexy floral nuance that gains strength with aeration. Juicy and concentrated yet lively as well, offering intense red and blue fruit and spicecake flavors that are supported and sharpened by a spine of zesty acidity. Sappy, appealingly sweet and extremely long on…