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The Innings Continues: 1948 to 1995 Yquem (May 2025)

The 1991 Yquem is my fourth encounter with this vintage that is better than the vintage reputation. This is more fragrant than the 1993 and 1994 on the nose, fig jam mixed with Aszú-like fruit, a subtle adhesive scent in the background. The palate is well balanced with a tangy entry and a keen thread…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2020 Meursault Genevrières 1er Cru comprises just a single barrel…but what a barrel! Stunning mineralité and tension on the nose, with slate and sea spray aromas. It’s precise and focused, with hints of orange blossom coming into view with aeration. The palate has tremendous depth. It’s harmonious and pixelated, with crustacea notes toward the…

Variations on a Theme: Burgundy 2020 Whites (Jul 2024)

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes 1er Cru has a more reserved, oyster shell-tinged bouquet that demonstrates more sophistication and nuance compared to Dujac’s Combettes. There’s almost something Chablis-like about this Puligny, with hints of algae/kelp. However, the aromatics cloud over with some reductive elements. The palate is well-balanced with a lovely slice of sour lemon,…

Variations on a Theme: Burgundy 2020 Whites (Jul 2024)

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes 1er Cru has a more reserved, oyster shell-tinged bouquet that demonstrates more sophistication and nuance compared to Dujac’s Combettes. There’s almost something Chablis-like about this Puligny, with hints of algae/kelp. However, the aromatics cloud over with some reductive elements. The palate is well-balanced with a lovely slice of sour lemon,…

Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux, Ten Years On

The 2016 Pavie has an intense bouquet with slightly smudged black plum and boysenberry fruit, just missing the minéralité and terroir expression of its peers. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent ripe tannins typical of Pavie, fine acidity, heady and powerful, with a dab of liquorice on the finish. Tasted at Bordeaux Index’s 10 Year…

Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux, Ten Years On

The 2016 Pavie displays just a little oxidation, which is a shame, as there is some seriously fine fruit here. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, fine depth, quite tensile, with a fresh, sapid finish. It’s just the aromatics that let this bottle down. Tasted blind at the Southwold 10-Year-On tasting.