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Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru is matured in three barrels of which two are new. It has a beautifully focused bouquet with dark cherries, blackcurrant, violet petals and crushed stone. The palate is medium-bodied with spicy black cherry and red fruit, blood orange and cracked black pepper. Very fine depth here, firm grip, very persistent…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses 1er Cru has a pretty bouquet, beautifully defined with pure red berry fruit, kirsch, orange pith and just a touch of warm bricks. Maybe just a tiny bit of alcoholic warmth, but in keeping with the vintage. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, fine delineation, fresh with the…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 1er Cru is more malic on the nose, touches of green apple, Williams pear and crushed stone. I would have liked just a little more vigour. The palate is well balanced with fine acidity. A little salinity emerges towards the second half that has impressive substance. Long tail on the…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru has an intense bouquet of lemon thyme, crushed limestone, and traces of orange pith and citrus peel that gain intensity with aeration. The palate is underpinned with a fine, almost razor-sharp bead of acidity. There is a wonderful crescendo of flavor here, leading to a multifaceted, lemongrass-tinged finish that lingers…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2019 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru needed a little encouragement from the glass. Eventually it reveals captivating scents of honeysuckle, petrichor and pressed yellow flowers, an underlying spiciness that comes through with aeration. The palate has a beguiling symmetry from the start: a killer line of acidity counterbalancing the intensity of this Chevalier, gentle grip towards…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2019 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru shows a little more clarity, a touch more crystalline on the nose compared to the Bienvenue, scents of Granny Smith apples, petrichor and gunflint. It is controlled and penetrating. The palate is extremely well balanced with a fine silver bead of acidity that cuts through the concentrated malic fruit, a…