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Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The 1989 Mouton-Rothschild can be variable from bottle to bottle. This example has an odd nose with a dab of wild mint. It just lacks a bit of class and feels clammed shut most of the time. The palate is medium-bodied, slightly chewy and has darker fruit compared directly with the 1989 Lafite-Rothschild. It coheres…

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

Whereas the 1989 Mouton-Rothschild opened at 67 Pall Mall failed to pass muster, this bottle tasted four months later was outstanding, many voting it the standout wine of the 1989 dinner. It has a quintessential Pauillac nose that gains more and more complexity with aeration: blackberry, pencil shavings, and freshly rolled tobacco, all wrapped up…

In Excelsis: Château Latour 1887 – 2010 (Jul 2018)

The 1973 Latour, gallantly poured from double magnum, displays a curious kidney bean, almost liver-like scent on the nose that is strangely attractive. The palate is medium-bodied, with big-boned tannin, a Latour that lacks grace with a dry, possibly very chaptalized finish, and yet not unattractive. Provenance and size of format are likely to have…

New Releases from Champagne (Dec 2008)

The house’s 1998 La Grande Dame reveals notable clarity and precision. This focused, poised wine emerges from the glass with well-articulated flowers, pears, smoke, crisp apples and minerals in a medium-bodied style. The wine appears to have enough freshness and sheer depth to support another decade or so of aging. La Grand Dame represents a…

New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2008)

Pale yellow with a steady bead. Orange, lemon, apple, smoky minerals and yeast on the nose. Fleshy orchard fruit flavors coat the palate and are energized by dusty minerals and a fresh jasmine quality. An energetic version of this bottling, with good finishing grip and lingering floral qualities. This gained weight with air: I’d hold…

Focus on California’s North Coast (May 2010)

Good deep ruby-red. Sweet, open aromas of ripe plum and currant complemented by chocolatey oak. In a fat, lush style, showing the sweetness of the vintage in spades. Not a particularly gripping wine but one that should give considerable early pleasure. The substantial tannins are dusty and fine.