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The 2019 Napa Valley Cabernets: A Deep Dive (Jan 2022)

Tasted from barrel, the 2019 Harlan Estate is relatively soft and open-knit. Lifted aromatics and silky tannins lend a fair amount of approachability. Crushed flowers, sweet bright red berry fruit, spice and orange peel linger. The 2019 is shaping up to be a real charmer. I have to think I caught it at an especially…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2001)

Rather deep copper color. Aromas of brown butter, toffee and walnut call to mind a dry oloroso sherry. Then large-scaled, rich, smooth and mouthfilling, with impressive concentration and a powerful impression of solidity. Shockingly fresh in the mouth following the mature aromas. In fact, this wine seemed to grow more vibrant as it opened in…

Champagnes Salon & Delamotte 1959-2007 (Jun 2016)

One of the few disappointments in this tasting, the 1990 Salon comes across as oddly evolved and disjointed today. It is hard to believe this is a representative bottle. Disgorged à la volée, with no dosage.

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Figeac is powerful and tightly wound. It does not possess the density or sheer sexiness of many Right Bank wines. Instead, the 2005 comes across as strict and severe. I am not sure the searing tannins will ever soften enough for the 2005 to be truly pleasurable. There is good brightness and plenty…

Cellar Journal – Bordeaux to Start… (Jul 2018)

The 2005 Figeac has been a variable performer over the years, one where you never quite know what to expect until you pull the corks. As usual, it has a sullen bouquet at first before offering broody black fruit laced with melted tar and tobacco, hints of liquorice almost reluctantly evolving with time. The palate…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good full medium ruby. The nose offers blackcurrant, licorice, graphite, violet, minerals and exotic spices. Broad, suave and fine-grained on the palate, with fleshy but sharply focused flavors of currant, minerals and tobacco. Finishes classically dry and very long. This is St. Emilion with Pauillac and Graves qualities-and a superb vintage for this chateau, whose…