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Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

Aymeric de Gironde, who without exaggeration has revolutionized this Saint-Émilion estate, told me that in 2021, the Troplong Mondot comes exclusively from the heart of the original vineyard, mainly on molasse soils. It was picked from September 17 to October 18, unusually finishing with the Merlot, and has 13.5% alcohol without any chaptalization or saignée….

2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

The 2021 Troplong Mondot is shockingly raw and untamed, but in the very best sense of those terms. A wine of energy and pure power, the 2021 is going to need a number of years to be at its best, but it is certainly very impressive in the early going. The 2021 clocks in at…

2021 Bordeaux: L’Enfant Terrible (Feb 2024)

The 2021 La Mission Haut-Brion comes across as delicate and soft. It is a wine that is very strongly marked by the year—there is no doubt about that. Floral and spice notes open first, as the 2021 shows off its restrained personality. Dark fruit, leather, cedar and tobacco develop in the glass, but this very…

2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 La Mission Haut-Brion has a very cohesive bouquet, well-defined with minerally red and black fruit, hints of white flowers and a distant tang of black olive. The almost “estuarine” element becomes more prominent with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, quite fresh though not a complex or deep La Mission. It…

Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 La Mission Haut-Brion is blessed with an ethereal bouquet, subtle touches of wilted iris petal and truffle infuse the black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, perfectly judged acidity, quite compact on the mid-palate with linear and correct finish. Not the most charming La Mission Haut-Brion. You could argue that it…

2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

The 2021 La Mission Haut-Brion offers lovely aromatic presence and fine balance, albeit in the smaller-scaled style of the year. Dried herbs, mint, sweet red cherry, incense and blood orange all run through the 2021. This is a decidedly understated edition of La Mission. It will be interesting to see if elevage adds body.