Archives: Product Reviews

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2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Deep, bright red-ruby. Wild aromas of black raspberry, mocha and mace. Rich and fat but a bit youthfully monolithic, showing more game and spice than fruits and flowers today. Much more closed and tannic than the Hauts-Doix. This appears to be in the process of shutting down.

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Léoville Las Cases is a very sensual wine. Silky and nuanced, the 2018 exudes extraordinary finesse from start to finish. The 2018 is a bit closed in on itself at first, but then again, that is Las Cases. At the same time, the tannins are nowhere as brooding as they once were. Inky…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Léoville–Las Cases, which was picked at 35.5hl/ha and matured in 90% new oak, still shows the exuberant floral bouquet that I remarked upon from barrel, featuring violets and (less so) lavender scents that complement the multilayered black fruit. On initial pouring, after a 60 minute decant, it blossoms and evolves greater delineation and…

Never a Dull Vintage in the Northern Rhône (Dec 2022)

Inky ruby. Smoke- and mineral-accented black and blue fruits, violet, licorice and an olive nuance on the deeply perfumed nose. Stains the palate with intense cherry, blueberry and fruitcake flavors that are sharpened by a spicy touch of cracked pepper. Youthfully chewy tannins frame an impressively long, penetrating finish that leaves candied dark berry and…

Never a Dull Vintage in the Northern Rhône (Dec 2022)

Dark violet color. Fragrant, spice-tinged blackberry, cherry, smoky bacon and olive aromas take on a floral nuance with aeration. Sappy and focused on the palate, offering intense dark fruit preserves, espresso, cracked pepper and floral pastille flavors that are energized by a hint of smoky minerality. Closes with repeating floral and spice notes, gently gripping…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Volnay Clos de la Barre 1er Cru demonstrates more finesse and coherence compared to the Santenots, offering pure dark cherry and boysenberry fruit mixed with light violet aromas. The lush, generous palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a silky-smooth texture and layers of black cherry and cassis toward the seductive finish. Just very……