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Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The 1989 Montrose can flirt with perfection when it wants to. This bottle, poured blind, is not the best example I have tasted, partly because it displays just a soupcon of Brettanomyces on the nose. The aromatics have a lovely warmth, with blackberries, rosemary and pencil shavings. However, because of the Brett, I feel that…

2015 Barolo – The Late Releases (Nov 2019)

The 2015 Barolo San Lorenzo di Verduno is a powerful, muscular wine, and yet it also has a sense of translucence that is hugely appealing. Iron, smoke, blood, leather, tobacco and incense give the San Lorenzo a distinctly feral, wild quality. I expect the 2015 will always remain a bit rustic in feel, but it…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Volnay "Vendage Sélectionée" is a selection from four parcels below Echards, Pluchots, Jeotte and Grand Champs that is matured in a little new oak. It has a high-toned bouquet of blueberry and raspberry fruit, and little cassis emerges with time in the glass. The palate is sweet and succulent on the entry and…

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Givry Crausot 1er Cru Blanc is quite backward on the nose despite encouragement. C’mon – give me more! The palate is fresh on the entry with crisp acidity, just a hint of orange peel and sour lemon complementing the citrus fruit, and the finish is nicely defined and persistent. Give this a couple…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Vosne-Romanée Aux Réas has a lovely red cherry, strawberry and rose petal scented bouquet that displays plenty of vigour with well integrated oak. The palate is well balanced with supple tannins, a little low in acidity but very pure with a caressing and quite persistent finish. This shows off the vineyard in a…

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Chambolle-Musigny Village comes from seven vineyards, of which two are Premier Crus (Les Gruenchers and Les Baudes). It contains 25% whole bunches. The lifted, floral bouquet is quite tightly knit at the moment but displays decent mineralité. The palate is medium-bodied with a sweet core of strawberry and cranberry fruit, a commendable acidic…