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Written in the Stars: Bordeaux 1865-2020 (Dec 2023)

The 1998 Haut-Brion is a vintage that has belatedly gained respect. It’s simply one of the First Growth’s best vintages since the 1989/1990. This bottle shows that it still deserves cellaring. With blackberry, crushed stone, tobacco and perhaps more floral/violet scents than I recall, it is an intense bouquet that does not hold back, yet…

A Birthday Dinner at Momofuku Ko, New York (May 2016)

A last minute addition to the lineup, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti’s 2005 Romanée Saint-Vivant opens with the most extraordinary, alluring bouquet imaginable. Silky, nuanced and super-polished on the palate, with exceptional purity, the 2005 simply soars out of the glass. The classic weightlessness of RSV comes through loud and clear. Bright saline notes give the…

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Deep red-ruby. Multidimensional nose combines blackberry, violet and minerals with exotic spices, earth and underbrush. Then juicy and gripping in the mouth, combining outstanding density and a distinctly light touch. This, too, boasts superb energy and sappiness to its flavors of red fruits, spices and earth. Wonderfully complex already but youthfully tight, firmly structured and…

Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle (Oct 2019)

The 2016 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru is showing some strong new oak characteristics on the nose that occludes the red berry fruit behind, although thankfully it does gain clarity. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannin, rustic in style with a slightly attenuated finish. Just a little style over substance perchance? Tasted blind at…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(from a single unfrosted parcel on the mid-slope on the Vosne-Romanée side, the yield was 35 hectoliters per hectare in 2016): Dark red with ruby highlights. The nose displays a rather cool aspect as well as some spicy oak to the aromas of black cherry, licorice and botanical herbs. Densely packed and very ripe but…

The 2022 Champagne New Releases (May 2022)

The 2004 Dom Pérignon P2 is precise and wonderfully refined, just like the first release. There’s a hint of reduction from extended time on the cork as well as a feeling of effusiveness that is so appealing. Readers will find a super-classic DP. Dried flowers, brioche, apricot preserves, sage, mint and chamomile are seamless in…