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Focus on Loire Valley Chenin Blanc (Dec 2014)

Golden yellow. Opulent peach aroma is lifted by nuances of herbal spices, white pepper and wet stone. With considerable depth and power, this chenin blanc appears almost monolithic, showing only a hint of its subtle acidity and firm tannic core. Pushed to the limits, this chenin blanc nonetheless rises above its high alcohol.

Focus on Loire Valley Chenin Blanc (Dec 2014)

Golden yellow. Herbal aromas of ripe apricot, tobacco and honey. Unctuous in texture, offering flavors of cantaloupe and honeydew melon. While finishing with a pleasant note of peppery spice, the wine’s broad-shouldered richness is typical of the vintage.

Krug: Clos du Mesnil 1979-1998 (Jul 2011)

We then made the jump so a set of younger wines that had been opened in advance. The 1995 Clos du Mesnil shows pretty notes of autumn leaves, truffles and citrus. It is a rather fat, texturally rich vintage that probably won’t age forever, but rather a wine that offers rewarding drinking at a relatively…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2005)

Light gold, with a slow mousse. Complex aromas of buttered nuts, brioche, honey, yellow peach and apricot seem evolved and open-knit. But this is surprisingly brisk on the palate, showing edgier, more citrus-driven pink grapefruit and lime flavors. The bitter citrus zest flavors are powerful and almost painfully concentrated. Displays the combination of richness and…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Dark red. Sappy red fruits and smoke on the nose. Cedary, minerally and uncompromisingly dry, with strong acidity giving the flavors penetration and cut. Finishes firmly tannic, with very good grip. This is always a second wine with character, rather than simply a receptacle for the fruit that doesn’t make it into the grand vin

Looking Back To Go Forward: Lafite-Rothschild 1868 – 2015 (Jul 2018)

The 1971 Lafite-Rothschild, a wine I have encountered three times, is not a great success for the estate. Rather old and musty on the nose, with faint cigar-box aromas, and fruit that appears to have receded many years ago. The palate is medium-bodied with pretty dour vestiges of black fruit, a little fleshiness towards the…