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Pages in the Photo Album: Vieux Château Certan 1928-2013 (Mar 2022)

The 2006 Vieux Château Certan has quite an "airy" and well-defined nose that seems to side with the Cabernet Franc/Sauvignon. Brambly red fruit intermingles with pencil lead and subtle slate aromas. The palate is medium-bodied and feels cohesive. Fine grip, quite sturdy with a dense finish, perhaps it has dispensed with some of the precision…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Good full red-ruby. Very sexy aromas and flavors of black raspberry, blackberry, roasted coffee, violet and licorice. Lush, silky and highly concentrated, with an utterly seamless texture to the middle palate. Wonderfully, ripe, broad, merlot-based wine; solid as a rock but utterly pliant. Finishes with captivating lingering sweetness, the broad tannins completely buffered by the…

Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2013)

Good bright medium red. Ripe strawberry, flowers and exotic white fruits on the inviting nose and palate. A fresh, tightly wound midweight with excellent intensity and purity of fruit. Finishes with serious, firm-edged tannins and terrific fruit persistence.

The 2022 Champagne New Releases (May 2022)

Bollinger’s 2008 R.D. is a powerful, vinous Champagne. Apricot, dried pear, tangerine oil, hazelnut, dried flowers, chamomile and brioche all race across the palate. The 2008 boasts notable depth and textural intensity, with a feeling of phenolic, almost tannin-driven grip from the Pinot that propels the finish. At times the R.D. is quite exotic, even…

Champagne: The 2023 Spring Preview (May 2023)

Bollinger’s 2008 R.D. is a powerful, vinous Champagne. Apricot, dried pear, tangerine oil, hazelnut, dried flowers, chamomile and brioche all race across the palate. The 2008 boasts notable depth and textural intensity, with a feeling of phenolic, almost tannin-driven grip from the Pinot that propels the finish. At times the R.D. is quite exotic, even…

2005 and 2004 Red Burgundies (Mar 2007)

(est. 750-$950) Good dark red. Deeply pitched aromas of cassis, earth and truffle (underground aromas while the Romanee-Saint-Vivant is more ethereal, says Villaine). Fat and broad in the mouth, with a strong earth-and-rocks character. Doesn’t show quite the lift of the RSV but this is even sweeter. Finishes with substantial dusty tannins. I suspect I’m…