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The 2008 Clarets (Jul 2011)

Deep ruby-purple. Captivating aromas of blackberry, black cherry, flowers, licorice and Oriental spices are lifted by hints of white pepper and soy sauce. Rich and concentrated yet suave on entry, then sweet but with outstanding grip in the middle, with harmonious acidity providing terrific lift and definition to the multifaceted, opulent flavors of dark berries,…

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The 1989 Lynch Bages remains a monumental achievement, perhaps the exemplar of an estate completely transcending its status. This bottle is consistent with my previous notes: stunning intensity with a cornucopia of black fruit, iodine, graphite and leather. Perhaps the palate is just a tad softer than the bottle tasted at the property a few…

The Vast Bounty of Central Spain (Feb 2021)

Saturated ruby. Expansive cherry, black raspberry, potpourri and exotic spice aromas are complemented by subtle licorice and woodsmoke flourishes. Vibrant and sharply focused in the mouth, with a spine of juicy acidity adding focus to palate-staining black and blue fruit liqueur, violet pastille, mocha and spicecake flavors. The floral quality resonates emphatically on the clinging…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Haut-Brion has a powerful bouquet with ample blackberry, hoisin, crushed stone and cedar aromas, quite warm and welcoming but retaining satisfying delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a fine bead of acidity, but it seems to tighten towards the fresh and persistent finish. Impressive but unequivocally not the best example. 14.3%…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Haut-Brion has a less precocious but more detailed bouquet, more nuanced perhaps with warm slates baking in the summer sun, tilled loam and cedar infusing the black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, perfect acidity, layers of mineral-rich black fruit. This seems to have gained more complexity in recent years and…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Vivid deep ruby. Knockout fruity nose offers blackcurrant, strawberry, rosemary, truffle and a stony note. Then very closed in the middle, with cabernet sauvignon-dominated flavors of cassis, cigar box, cedar and minerals. Finishes long and deep, with massive but smooth tannins and a lingering note of violet. This will need plenty of time in the…