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Five Vertical Tastings (Jul 1999)

Pure, precise aromas of lemon, butter and clove; strong impression of citricity. Dense, sweet and very rich, with powerful lemony acidity framing and carrying the fruit. Very tightly wrapped but obviously rich: the perfect formula for a vin de garde Very classy Meursault many years short of its peak drinkability. Should be long-lived.

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Chambolle-Musigny Les Combottes 1er Cru was a little more closed on the nose compared to the other cuvées, gradually unfolding with dark berry fruit, crushed stone, briary and a touch of graphite. The palate is beautifully defined with fine-grain, pliant tannins, quite tensile from start to finish with a perfectly proportioned finish. Wonderful.

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras 1er Cru has an almost flinty bouquet with delicate wilted rose petal scents that gradually unfold in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied, the 65% whole bunch barely detectable. Very cohesive, fine tannins, very saline towards the finish with shucked oyster shell, one of this limestone-rich vineyard’s signature notes. Sculpted…

Herding Cats: Burgfest 2020 – The Reds (Oct 2024)

The 2020 Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras 1er Cru has a tightly wound nose and lacks a little amplitude. It’s too strict for a Chambolle at first, but I feel this might be closing down. It is quite discrete and improves in the glass, gaining composure and complexity. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly dry tannins, dark…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Echézeaux Grand Cru has a perfumed bouquet of black cherry and blueberry fruit, quite intense but well delineated. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, dark berry fruit, cedar and tobacco. The wood tannins are perhaps a little too vocal on the finish. Roumier mentioned that the 2019 is exciting; let’s see what…

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Bright red-ruby. Classic Clos de Vougeot aromas of dark cherry, licorice and minerals. Concentrated, spicy and sweet; surprisingly pliant in the middle palate for the cru and for the vintage but with lovely inner-mouth energy too. The dark fruit flavors are complicated by an element of saline minerality. Not as austere as I would have…