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Vinous Table: Where Do I Eat In Burgundy? (Jan 2024)

The 2018 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru from Roumier offers copious amounts of black cherries and blueberry fruit. It is still a “baby”, though that doesn’t make it unenjoyable, even if you cannot help thinking that it needs at least another decade. The palate is framed by those succulent tannins, one of the tropes of the growing…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Morey-Saint-Denis Clos de la Bussière 1er Cru offers blackberry, briar and crushed stone aromas on the nose, which is nicely focused but not powerful. The palate is built around chalky tannins and a fine bead of acidity. Very focused and fresh, with an almost sorbet-like finish. Roumier said this was the first to…

Fairest of Them All: Cos d’Estournel 1928 – 2015 (Oct 2018)

The 1996 Cos d’Estournel has a fragrant, Pauillac-tinged bouquet with the melted tar and graphite leitmotifs that I remarked upon in previous encounters. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy-textured tannin. I feel that the 1996 shows a tad more maturity than a few months ago, with undergrowth and peat-like notes surfacing with aeration and then…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 d’Yquem is a vintage that I have awarded perfect scores to in the past however, neither bottles merit that on this occasion. The first bottle feels scalped, so much so that a second bottle is checked. This has a very refined and sophisticated bouquet with wild honey, brioche, vanilla pod and light orange…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Pape Clément has a gorgeous bouquet with vibrant red berry fruit, camphor, raspberry preserve and just a hint of marmalade – very seductive and classy. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins and good density, as you would expect. Whilst a little grainy in texture it feels structured with tarry black fruit, although…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Pape Clément has a well-defined bouquet with blackberry, hints of liquorice and cedar, very well defined and focused. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a fine bead of acidity and impressive depth. This is a Pessac with ambition and what it asks in complexity it makes up for in concentration on the…