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Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020 (May 2021)

The 2020 Domaine de Chevalier, which was cropped at 38hl/ha, is deep purple with glints of blue. The bouquet is very clean, precise and focused, not dissimilar to the impressive Malartic Lagravière that I tasted alongside, touches of wet granite and truffle emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins. This Domaine de…

The Barossa: An Ascent to Higher Quality (Dec 2021)

Inky ruby color. Expansive aromas of dark fruit liqueur, incense, candied flowers, Indian spices and vanilla. Has a smoky mineral quality that gains strength as the wine opens up. Fleshy, sweet and broad on the palate, offering impressively concentrated yet lively blackcurrant, boysenberry and violet pastille flavors that are lifted and sharpened by a smoky…

Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020 (May 2021)

The 2020 Ducru Beaucaillou was picked from 11-30 September, matured entirely in new oak for an expected 18 months. It has a very succinct bouquet, not one that leaps from the glass and demands attention, but it unfolds slowly, at its own pace, revealing enticing scents of blackberry, cedar, iris petals and crushed stone. The…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Yquem is a wine I’ve tasted several times in recent months since it is available by the glass in a local restaurant. It’s a middle-of-the-road Yquem, a fine Sauternes but nothing special. The aromatics always feel a little advanced for the wine’s age, offering tangerine, mandarin and light butterscotch scents but perhaps just…

1999 and 1998 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2001)

Saturated ruby-red. Superripe but reticent, grenache-dominated aromas of roasted plum, cherry jam, tar and humus. Fat, lush and stuffed with fruit; almost heavy today compared to the ’99. But this is utterly silky and its firm underlying structure is buried by fruit and baby fat. Intriguing meat and licorice notes. A wine of superb finesse…

2000 and 1999 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2002)

Full ruby. Highly complex nose combines black fruits, gibier, truffle, road tar, licorice and leather. Very intense and spicy, but still tightly wound, with a firm acid spine keeping the flavors under wraps. Very interior wine today, notes Perrin. But one already senses the incipient complexity. Finishes with building tannins, a note of caramel and…