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Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020 (May 2021)

The 2020 Troplong Mondot was tasted from two samples, both directly from the estate, but with two prelèvements because Aymeric de Gironde was not content with the showing of the first. Indeed, the second, which was tasted the following day (yes, bottles arrived quickly) did show slightly better, even if there was not an enormous…

Bordeaux 2020: Saving the Best for Last (Feb 2023)

The 2020 L’If is dense, powerful and explosive to the core. A rush of black cherry fruit, chocolate, graphite, cloves and lavender saturates the palate. This powerful, dense Saint-Émilion is all muscle and brawn today. There is no shortage of intensity, but all of that energy is directed inwards at this stage. Huge tannins and…

Thrice Is Nice: Bordeaux 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

The 2020 L’If is precocious on the nose, with macerated black cherries, crushed violet, and blueberry emerging with time, all very well-defined and focused. The oak is nicely integrated here. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, a little fleshier than its stablemate L’Hêtre. A pinch of white pepper towards the second half and an…

2020 Bordeaux En Primeur: Almost Back to Normal (Jun 2021)

The 2020 L'If is shaping up to be a jewel of a wine. In most vintages so far, L'If has been a dense, textured Saint-Émilion. In 2020, all of that energy seems directed toward extreme verticality rather than heft. I have to say, it’s a style I like a lot. Bright acids and persistent tannins…

Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020 (May 2021)

The 2020 L’If is the first to include the Cabernet Franc that Jacques Thienpont planted four years ago, representing 16% of the blend this year, the remainder is Merlot. It has a more open nose than the Le Pin tasted alongside, a mélange of red berry fruit, mint, iodine and a dab of liquorice. That…

Bordeaux 2020: Saving the Best for Last (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc marries power and tension so well. Lemon confit marzipan, chamomile, dried orchard fruit and crushed flowers all build effortlessly into the expansive, beautifully resonant finish. Above all else, the Blanc is a wine of savory/mineral complexity and structure. I wouldn’t dream of touching a bottle anytime soon. Tasted two…