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Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 1962 Yquem has always been a feted vintage. This bottle, served at a private dinner in London, was certainly impressive. It was a late-ripening year and it was only after 15 October that botrytis-affected grapes could be picked. Refulgent in colour, it has a disarming nose with dried honey, candle wax and light adhesive…

Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)

The 2010 Château Margaux continues to deliver the goods, but like the 2005, it is a wine that demands patience. Backward on the nose, this vintage offers black fruit, crushed violet petals and mint, graphite and cedar joining the chorus line. This bouquet is only in its first chapter. The palate is one of the…

Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 2007 Ducru-Beaucaillou, matured in 90% new oak, is a vintage that I have not tasted for several years. It has quite a potent, lavender-scented bouquet, more red than black fruit (raspberry and pomegranate) and touches of iris emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with secondary notes percolating through: seaweed, bay leaf and white…

2007 Bordeaux : Don’t Hate Me Because I’m Overpriced (Jul 2010)

Red-ruby. Nicely ripe aromas for the year: cassis, lead pencil, menthol, minerals and flowers. Then juicy, intense and sharply delineated, with lovely lift to the fla vors of dark berries, minerals and cedar. Silky-sweet wine with lovely aromatic persistence. And very intense for 2007.

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Cheval Blanc has a surprisingly understated bouquet that unfurls in the glass with perfumed, quite floral aromas of rose petal and violet that complement the red cherries, cranberry and wild strawberry. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannin, the Cabernet Franc component expressive with brown spice and ferrous notes infusing the fruit….

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Cheval Blanc has a rambunctious nose with copious red fruit, meat juices, sage and crushed stone aromas, ineffably complex. This is so refined, constantly mutating in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, saturated tannin. There is a mixture of red and black fruit, hints of cassis, cardamom and allspice. Immense depth…