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This Is Not Morey-Saint-Denis (March 2019)

The 2012 Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er Cru appears to be enduring an awkward adolescent phase. The aromatics feel a little disjointed, the fruit tucked away somewhere else leaving tealeaf, bay leaf and nagging vegetal notes in its place – atypical for the style of this vintage. Alex Seysses told me that they had some reduction…

The 2013 & 2012 Red Burgundies (Apr 2015)

The 2012 Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts is shaping up to be a real beauty. Dark, sensual and expressive, the 2012 is wonderfully open today, which is quite surprising. As always, Malconsorts is defined by a textural feel of nearly indescribable finesse. There is plenty of that in the 2012.

The 2012 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Mar 2015)

Bright medium red. Captivating floral lift to the aromas of raspberry, minerals and truffle. Dense, sweet and utterly seamless, communicating a powerful impression of truffley soil tones but also plenty of high-pitched floral and mineral perfume. Boasts bulletproof fruit and yet this wine is perfectly harmonious today. The palate-staining finish leaves the taste buds humming….

Cellar Favorites: 1976 & 1979 Krug Vintage Magnums (Nov 2015)

Nineteen seventy-nine is one of the all-time great vintages for Krug. Among other things, it marks the first release of Krug’s Clos du Mesnil. The 1979 Vintage, tasted from magnum, is utterly magnificent and nearly as thrilling as the Mesnil. Miraculously fresh for a wine of its age, the 1979 pulses with remarkable energy and tension,…

Vintage Port – The 2016 Declaration (Jun 2018)

The 1975 Taylor’s Vintage Port is mature in colour, lighter on the nose than either the 1970 or 1977 with wild strawberry, cherry, pencil lead and sawdust. No, it is not complex, but it is clean and fresh. The medium-bodied is more driven by fruit than other vintages and lacks a little structure, yet there…

Elegance and Power: The 2010 White Burgundies (Aug 2012)

Things go up a notch or two with the 2010 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet, which appears to hover on the palate with the grace of a ballerina. The Bienvenues is all about weightless elegance and implied structure, but it is all there in the glass. At times a bit intellectual, the Bienvenues is nevertheless immensely appealing. Layers of…