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Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Cantenac Brown feels a little muted on the nose compared to its peers, but with modest aeration it develops very attractive, leafy black fruit, tertiary in style and beautifully defined. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, very well judged acidity and plenty of substance towards the finish. I love the cohesion and…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Bright ruby-red. Sharply delineated if youthfully strict aromas of bitter cherry and violet. Then densely packed and juicy, with very firm underlying structure to the intense, rather cool flavors of cassis, minerals, licorice and herbs. With its firm-edged tannins and serious spine, this wine conveys an impression of medicinal austerity today, but its inner-mouth perfume…

The 2019 Champagne Summer Preview (Jul 2019)

The 2000 Dom Pérignon Rosé is just starting to enter its first plateau of maturity. Sweet tobacco, mint, dried flowers, rose petal, game, licorice and tobacco add myriad shades of aromatic nuance. This is the first vintage in which former Chef de Caves Richard Geoffroy started bumping up the percentage of still Pinot in his…

2008 and 2007 Red Burgundies (Mar 2010)

Bright medium red. Not as precise on the nose today as the Beaux Monts, with some reduction to the aromas of cocoa, smoke, minerals and game. Fat, sweet and full but without quite the detail of the Beaux Monts. Finishes broad, dry and classic. Grivot believes his 2008s lack precision today due to the low…

Mouton Rothschild: 2003-2015 (May 2016)

The 2011 Mouton Rothschild is dark, powerful and concentrated. Plum, grilled herbs, smoke, graphite and mocha are all nicely delineated in the glass. The effects of the hot, dry weather are felt in the wine’s roasted flavors and hard tannins that reflect the heat stress of the season. I suspect the 2011 will have its…

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Dark ruby-red. Complex aromas of minty raspberry, plum, spicy tobacco and underbrush. Red berry, cedar and floral flavors show a creamy texture but are nicely lifted by ripe, harmonious acidity and a saline quality. Finishes with ripe tannins and rising length. This has none of the green notes or harsh tannins of many 2011 Bordeaux…