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Cellar Favorite: The Fives at Château d’Issan (Mar 2021)

The 2010 Château d’Issan has a very intense bouquet with layers of black fruit interlaced with wild hedgerow, touches of iodine and brine that I noticed on the same bottle a couple of years ago. This still requires a couple of years (or 2-3 hours of decanting) before serving. The palate is much more refined…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Bright medium ruby. Wild, musky aromas of black raspberry, cassis, cedar, smoke, leather, game and bitter chocolate. Dense, chewy and dry, with good peppery lift to the cherry skin and bitter chocolate flavors. Finishes with surprisingly fine-grained tannins and a juicy quality. This dry, classic claret needs time in bottle to gain flesh and sweetness….

Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

Medium-deep ruby. Slightly low-toned nose begins a bit swampy but clears somewhat with air, revealing ripe blackberry and balsamic plum notes. Then creamy and nicely balanced on the palate, with flavors of blueberry syrup, graphite and wet underbrush. Finishes smooth and long. I tasted this wine four times: the two bottles I tried at the…

2008 Bordeaux: A Day In A Life (Feb 2018)

The 2008 Smith Haut Lafitte is a lovely wine for the vintage, still quite polished on the nose with scents of blackcurrant and raspberry coulis, a touch of melted tar and tobacco; youthful for its age and showing fine vigor. With aeration there is suddenly a strong scent of liquorice. The palate is soft and…

The 2008 Clarets (Jul 2011)

Good medium ruby. Black cherry, dark berries and licorice on the nose. Sweet but firm, with excellent concentration and medicinal reserve to the dark berry flavors. An elegant, ripe, smooth wine with a lovely mounting finish featuring suave tannins. No rough edges or austerity here–in fact this is downright creamy in the mid-palate–but this has…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Medium-deep red. Warm aromas of redcurrant, leather, minerals and spices. Very smooth and suave in the mouth; not especially dense or sweet but quite silky and attractive. Finishes with dusty, fine tannins and moderate length.