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In Excelsis: Château Latour 1887 – 2010 (Jul 2018)

The 1986 Latour is a vintage that has constantly left me disappointed in context of the growing season and the performance of its peers such as Mouton-Rothschild or Léoville Las Cases. This last bottle did nothing to change my opinion. It just feels enervated on the nose, as if it cannot be bothered to offer…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Lynch-Bages (Jan 2012)

(4.75 g/l total acidity; 13% alcohol): Dark ruby-red with a hint of garnet at the rim. Evolved, musky aromas of blackberry, coffee, camphor and underbrush. Juicy and on the lean side, with uncomplicated flavors of small dark berries, licorice and mushroom. The short finish features a hint of black pepper and firm, chunky tannins that…

In Good Taste: Branaire-Ducru 1928-2013 (Mar 2020)

The 1996 Branaire-Ducru is a delightful vintage and represents the pinnacle of that decade. It has an exquisite bouquet that is defined and focused: blackberry, pencil lead, tobacco and a touch of chimney soot after time. The palate is very pure with really fine tannin. There is a sense of panache and class about this…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Branaire-Ducru (Mar 2014)

(64% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot and 6% petit verdot; 3.81 pH; 12.9% alcohol): Dark red with a hint of amber at the rim. Aromatic nose of red cherry, cedar, graphite and orange peel, complicated by a leafy note. Fresh, clean flavors of redcurrant and spicy herbs linger well on the juicy, high-acid finish. Improved considerably…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Excellent deep ruby. Vibrant, perfumed aromas of cassis, crystallized black cherry, Cuban tobacco, minerals, dark chocolate and mint. Thick, sweet and concentrated; ripe and pliant. Lively flavor of crunchy berries. Lovely balance and complexity. Finishes very long, with chewy, palate-coating tannins. A classic vintage for Branaire, says Dhalluin, who considers this and the ’89 the…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 2008 Calon-Ségur has a perfumed, floral bouquet that is wonderfully detailed; raspberry and cranberry fruit flanked by rose petal and subtle iris aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin and a crisp line of acidity. This is brisk and focused with a light black pepper note cropping up on the finish, the aftertaste…