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A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 1982 Figeac is a Saint-Émilion that I have tasted three times in recent months. It seems to be enjoying a second wind. This is powerful on the nose with dark berry fruit, melted tar, tobacco and cedar. There is a sense of “correctness” in this Figeac that is uncommon amongst 1982s. The palate is…

Cellar Journal – Bordeaux to Start… (Jul 2018)

The 1982 Figeac is a wine that I have tasted over a dozen times, a mercurial Saint-Émilion can surprise and disappoint at a whim. Certainly here, compared to the 1966 and 1975, I am a bit underwhelmed. The bouquet is jarringly herbaceous unlike many of its Right Bank peers. The palate is dry and structured,…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Medium red with an amber edge. Highly nuanced nose combines red- and blackcurrant, mocha, dried herbs, olive, truffle and underbrush. Very dense and sweet, but with terrific penetration and verve thanks to firm, harmonious acidity. Finishes with broad, ripe tannins and superb length. This bottle came across as young and still evolving. Drink now through…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Cos d’Estournel has a well-defined bouquet that takes a few swirls of the glass to get going. It is not complex or vigorous, yet nicely detailed. Melted tar and cigar humidor infuse the black fruit, becoming earthier with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with a fine line of acidity. This feels quite masculine…

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Red-ruby. Wild aromas of redcurrant, minerals, leather, gunflint and game; developing faster than either of the more recent vintages are likely to do. A wine of modest density and fat, and currently rather austere, but possesses very good vinosity and length. Tannins are slightly dry but fine.