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2014 Bordeaux: It Ain’t Over Till It’s Over (Apr 2015)

The 2014 Roc de Cambes is all perfume and silk in the glass. Understated and lifted in style, the 2014 is beautifully layered, with plenty of sweet red cherry, rose petal, mint and spice. All the elements are nuanced and delineated in an open-knit wine that should offer a wide window of fine drinking. The…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Morey-Saint-Denis Faconnières 1er Cru, which contains 70-80% whole bunches, has a perfumed and floral bouquet of violets and iris. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, very focused and perhaps the most sophisticated of all Virgile Lignier’s cuvées. He comments that this was closed 10 days ago but to his surprise has completely…

2010 Red Burgundies (Jan 2012)

Bright, full red. Liqueur-like raspberry syrup and mocha aromas lifted by stony minerality and peppermint. Lush and silky on entry, then more powerful in the middle, with a strong crushed stone element giving shape to the raspberry and mint flavors. Finishes strong and very long, with fine-grained tannins and noteworthy energy.

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Deep, bright red-ruby. Wild aromas of black raspberry, mocha and mace. Rich and fat but a bit youthfully monolithic, showing more game and spice than fruits and flowers today. Much more closed and tannic than the Hauts-Doix. This appears to be in the process of shutting down.

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Léoville Las Cases is a very sensual wine. Silky and nuanced, the 2018 exudes extraordinary finesse from start to finish. The 2018 is a bit closed in on itself at first, but then again, that is Las Cases. At the same time, the tannins are nowhere as brooding as they once were. Inky…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Léoville–Las Cases, which was picked at 35.5hl/ha and matured in 90% new oak, still shows the exuberant floral bouquet that I remarked upon from barrel, featuring violets and (less so) lavender scents that complement the multilayered black fruit. On initial pouring, after a 60 minute decant, it blossoms and evolves greater delineation and…