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Champagne: The 2023 Spring Preview (May 2023)

The 1997 Salon, tasted from the 2019 disgorgement, is fabulous. Scents of marzipan, honey, apricot jam, tangerine, spice and brioche open first, followed by touches of reduction from extended time on the lees. The 1997 is in some ways mature, and yet the recent disgorgement brings so much freshness. Today, the 1997 is peaking. It…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Red-ruby. Cool aromas of blackberry and mint. Quite primary and unevolved today, with reasonably intense dark fruit flavors currently suppressed by a streak of acidity that gives the finish a dry edge. Seems a bit underripe/overripe today and is showing awkwardly.

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Good deep red-ruby color. Black cherry, leather, olive and a hint of crystallized berries; fresher on the nose than the ’97. Sweet, firmly structured and very nicely balanced, with strong but integrated acidity and very good flavor definition. Tannins are ripe and fine.

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Chambolle-Musigny La Combe d’Orveau 1er Cru has a showy bouquet with raspberry, cranberry, bergamot and tea leaf aromas, perhaps just needing a little more cohesion that should develop during the remainder of its maturation. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannins, black fruit laced with graphite leading to a fresh, classically styled finish…

Sonoma & Napa Valley Supplement 2018 (Jul 2018)

The 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Martha’s Vineyard is a powerful wine. Beguiling aromatics make a strong opening statement. Pine, rosemary, mint, sweet red cherry, pomegranate and a touch of new oak give the wine its bright, lifted feel. Even with considerable air, and also taking into account the personality of the year, the 2013 Martha’s remains…

New Releases from Piedmont: The Stars Are Aligned (Oct 2011)

The 2008 Barbaresco Santo Stefano has the same color the 1987 had when it was 20 years old, which is to say almost rose colored. I don’t think the 2008 will make its 20th birthday, however. This is a light, translucent, fleeting wine with very little fruit and body.