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The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Ruby-red. Exotic, full-blown aromas of coffee, leather and game, with distinct suggestions of roasted fruits. Fat, dense and lush, with a very sweet, chocolatey flavor and a suggestion of roasted nuts. A big wine with big, ripe tannins. I like what the heat of the vintage has done for this property. But this wine may…

Léoville-Poyferré 1936-2018 (Sep 2022)

The 2004 Léoville-Poyferré has a light and airy bouquet with blackberry, antique bureau, forest floor and light fungal aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly dry tannins, a little austere but balanced, though I notice some attenuation and bitterness towards the finish. So-so for this estate. Tasted at the Léoville-Poyferré vertical at the château with…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Bright ruby-red. Very expressive nose offers redcurrant, tobacco, flowers and nutty oak. Supple, silky and pliant but with good energy to its red fruit and floral flavors. Finishes with broad, sweet tannins and a lingering note of tobacco. This remains quite open and appears to be evolving very much like the 2001.

Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 2005 Yquem is limpid golden in hue. The bouquet is gorgeous, finely-tuned and precise with clear honey, vanilla pod and saffron, less of the almond that I have noticed previously. The palate is built around its exquisite poise, the acidity keeping this Yquem on its tip-toes. As I have noted before, it appears to…

Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Domaine des Cambes has a tightly wound bouquet that needs more time in the glass, opening to offer black cherries, boysenberry and a touch of wild heather, almost Burgundian in style. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, very well-judged acidity, and flavors of black plum mixed with soy, white pepper and clove…

2019 Bordeaux from Bottle: The Two Towers (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Domaine des Cambes is bursting at the seams with super-ripe dark cherry, plum, espresso, licorice, menthol and chocolate. This rich, boisterous Blaye is full of energy. There's real depth and energy here, not to mention tons of character. Dried herb, leather, cedar and tobacco linger on the ample, beautifully textured finish.