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Looking The Part: Pichon-Baron 1953 – 2015 (Jan 2019)

The 2003 Pichon-Baron has one of the better aromatics this vintage compared to its peers, featuring mulberry and cranberry fruit, orange peel, leather and a touch of star anise. The palate is medium-bodied with furry tannins and lower acidity than the 2002, yet more freshness than in many Left Bank wines. It shows commendable depth…

Once Upon a Time – Soldera Retrospective: 1977-2017 (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino is the twin sibling of the 2001, except that the power of the earlier vintage is expressed as total finesse here. Layered and beautifully persistent on the palate, the 2004 is incredibly sensual. It’s a wine of detail and delineation more than of broad strokes or intensity. Dark Sangiovese fruit,…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Mouton-Rothschild (Aug 2011)

(a blend of 86% cabernet sauvignon and 14% merlot; pH 3.85; 69 IPT; 12.3% alcohol; 85% selection for the grand vin; 85% new oak): Bright deep ruby with the barest hint of garnet; still very youthful. Enticing, complex nose of cassis, smoky cedar, violet, underbrush and kirsch; very Pauillac, if in a ripe style. Dense,…

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2000 Mouton-Rothschild is a vintage that famously came in an eye-catching gold-embossed bottle, though I was rather ambivalent about its quality. Now just over two decades old, it has a focused bouquet of blackberry, mint and tobacco/black truffle scents, demonstrating fine intensity if not the show-stopping complexity one might expect from a First Growth…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Full medium ruby. Exotic aromas of cassis, roast coffee and sweet oak. Sweet, thick and oaky, with superb breadth of flavor; at once chewy and smooth. An impressively rich, ripe, oaky Mouton with palate-staining length and strong finishing oakiness. But less noble and scented than the young 2002, which may be every bit as dense.

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Good deep ruby. Spicy aromas of blueberry, licorice, minerals, flowers and bitter chocolate. Sweet, suave and deep, with lovely lift to the complex cabernet franc-driven violet, cocoa and white pepper flavors. Firmly structured and long on the refined, youthfully chewy, tannic finish. This 2010 will really need at least a few years to expand, but…