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A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Cheval Blanc has a surprisingly understated bouquet that unfurls in the glass with perfumed, quite floral aromas of rose petal and violet that complement the red cherries, cranberry and wild strawberry. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannin, the Cabernet Franc component expressive with brown spice and ferrous notes infusing the fruit….

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Cheval Blanc has a rambunctious nose with copious red fruit, meat juices, sage and crushed stone aromas, ineffably complex. This is so refined, constantly mutating in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, saturated tannin. There is a mixture of red and black fruit, hints of cassis, cardamom and allspice. Immense depth…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Very good deep red. Red cherry, raspberry, oak spice, toffee, sweet butter and a hint of raisin on the nose. Silky and fruity, with lovely sweetness and firm supporting acidity, but rather closed at present. Finishes with fine but firm tannins and bright, lingering cherry flavor. Perhaps less expressive today than the ’97 but more…

The Best New Wines from Spain, Part 2 (Sep 2009)

Ruby-red. Shockingly deep in color for a ten-year-old wine. Explosive aromas of cherry compote, black raspberry, blood orange, Asian spices and smoky minerals. Pure, vibrant and sweet, offering intense cherry and red berry flavors, with tangy mineral spine and an exotic smokiness. Extremely deep but energetic, with a powerful echo of minerals and singed orange…

The 2014 & 2013 White Burgundies (Sep 2015)

Deeper-pitched on the nose than the Bienvenue, offering musky, slightly reduced scents of very ripe peach and grilled nuts. Sweet, large-scaled and powerful but youthfully laid-back today. More tannic than the Bienvenue but the firm finishing flavors of pear and minerals titillate the retronasal passage. Still a baby.

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Mouton Rothschild is a rich, shockingly flamboyant wine endowed with tremendous fruit density and a level of unctuousness that could be taken for a wine still in barrel. Marvelously open and fleshy, the 2018 is utterly breathtaking today. I imagine it will shut down at some point, but today it is all seduction…