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A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Gloria is tightly wound on the nose with lifted blackberry, bilberry, brine and crushed stone aromas – very nicely focused with real vigour and vibrancy. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain but assertive tannin that frame the layers of toasty black fruit laced with brown spices and white pepper. There is real…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a blend of 61% cabernet sauvignon, 27% merlot, 6% cabernet franc and 6% petit verdot; 13.6 % alcohol; pH 3.72; 78 IPT; 40% new oak) Bright red. Charming, fruity aromas of strawberry, raspberry and clove. Then surprisingly firm on entry, with stiff tannins providing backbone to the ripe red fruit and herbal flavors. The persistent…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Gloria has a well defined, classic Saint-Julien bouquet with blackberry, forest floor, cedar and hints of mint coming through with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin. Not unlike Branaire-Ducru in style but with just a little more heft towards the grippy finish. This is a Gloria that I would broach over…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(a 69/31 blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot; 72 IPT; 3.81 pH; 13.7% alcohol) Deep, bright ruby-purple. Classic highly perfumed aromas of blackcurrant, violet, crushed stone and gunflint. Bright, clean and concentrated but currently backward, with densely packed black fruit and mineral flavors displaying a wonderfully precise, penetrating quality. Finishes long and subtle, with an…

Cellar Favorite: The Fives at Château d’Issan (Mar 2021)

The 2010 Château d’Issan has a very intense bouquet with layers of black fruit interlaced with wild hedgerow, touches of iodine and brine that I noticed on the same bottle a couple of years ago. This still requires a couple of years (or 2-3 hours of decanting) before serving. The palate is much more refined…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Bright medium ruby. Wild, musky aromas of black raspberry, cassis, cedar, smoke, leather, game and bitter chocolate. Dense, chewy and dry, with good peppery lift to the cherry skin and bitter chocolate flavors. Finishes with surprisingly fine-grained tannins and a juicy quality. This dry, classic claret needs time in bottle to gain flesh and sweetness….