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Further Inroads Into Burgundy 2020 (May 2022)

The 2020 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is a little conservative on the nose and takes some time to open. Yellow fruit, just a touch of candle wax and just a hint of lime. The palate is rounded on the entry, good weight, honeyed in texture with fine acidity. Just a hint of white pepper perks up…

Further Inroads Into Burgundy 2020 (May 2022)

The 2020 Beaune Grèves 1er Cru was quite closed on the nose which made it difficult to read. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly grainy tannins. Good weight, darker fruit than other cuvées, the 20% whole cluster imparting spicy/peppery notes on the finish. Excellent. This is a sense of classicism that I admire here.

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Cheval Blanc (Oct 2011)

61% merlot and 39% cabernet franc): Good full ruby. Crystallized blackcurrant, licorice, cedar and menthol on the nose, complicated by cocoa and smoky minerals. Round and ripe but not thick or heavy on the palate, featuring tangy flavors of black cherry, licorice, graphite and spices. At once creamy and juicy, with good breadth and fine…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Cheval Blanc is a vintage that has never quite rocked my boat, and at 20 years of age, it still doesn’t. The bouquet feels a little simple and quite high-toned for Cheval Blanc, driven by the Merlot and trying too hard to impress. The palate is medium-bodied with robust tannin and sweet candied…

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Full ruby-red. Aromas of currant, bitter chocolate, violet, lead pencil and tobacco leaf; less black and more red than the 2000 and 2001. Fat, sweet and full, with smoke and currant flavors. Long on personality but it’s hard to imagine this wine ever showing as much complexity as either of the subsequent two vintages. Finishes…

Vertical Tasting of Quinta do Noval’s Nacional Vintage Port (Nov 2012)

Good medium ruby. Slightly high-toned aromas of black cherry, blackberry and licorice; more medicinal today than the regular vintage bottling. Big, rich and sweet, but still dominated by baby fat and in a rather monolithic stage today. Very ripe but the medicinal menthol quality currently holds the upper hand over the wine’s glossy dark fruits….