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Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2004)

Good full, deep red. Wild aromas of currant, camphor, leather, tar, dark chocolate and game, with an enticing floral topnote. Lush, sweet and concentrated, but with a powerful underlying spine. Classic sweet-but-dry Barolo of great brooding richness. Quite dominated today by its structure and austere on the aftertaste, but this young Barolo offers terrific depth…

2014 Barolo: Surprise, Surprise… (Feb 2018)

The 2014 Barolo Sperss is an attractive wine from Gaja’s vineyards in Serralunga. There is good depth to the succulent black cherry, plum, smoke and licorice flavors, although it doesn’t quite have the explosiveness or power of the very best years. Because of the wine’s slender personality, the oak is a bit more evident than…

Focus on California (May 1999)

Deep ruby-red. Black cherry, cassis, tobacco and shoe polish on the nose. Good flavor intensity, but not as fruity or dense as the ’97. Could use a bit more pliancy. Finishes fairly tannic, with hints of chocolate, minerals and mint. Seems less thoroughly ripe than the ’97.

Some Great Reward: South Africa (Aug 2018)

The 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon spent 18 months in 50% new and 50% second-fill oak. It has a lifted, intense bouquet of blackberry, raspberry, briar, cedar and light tobacco scents. A subtle marine influence lends complexity. The palate is clean and fresh on the entry, offering graphite-tinged black fruit, much better weight in the mouth than…

The 2012 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Mar 2015)

Bright red. Musky, soil-driven aromas and flavors of raspberry, dried flowers, leather and minerals. At once fine-grained and penetrating, conveying outstanding density without any impression of weight. This wine could hardly be more different than the musclebound Clos Vougeot. Spreads out and builds on the back end, with the full, ripe tannins totally buffered by…

2012 Red Burgundy: Against All Odds (Jan 2014)

Dark red stone fruits, black plums, spices, menthol and tar meld together in the 2012 Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Saint Georges. This is a decidedly ripe, racy Saint Georges that nicely balances fruit and structure. Raw and intense, the 2012 comes across as much less polished than the other wines in this range, especially the Grand Crus….