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2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Bright, dark red. Knockout nose offers most of the Musigny food groups: raspberry, cherry, earth, wild herbs, flowers and minerals, plus a leathery nuance. Pungent and extremely intense but utterly weightless owing to its near-perfect balance of sweetness and juiciness. Best today on the explosive, building back end, which offers a powerfully chewy, sappy impression…

The 2019 Champagne Summer Preview (Jul 2019)

Tasted from magnum, the 2004 Grande Cuvée Rosé Alexandra, Laurent-Perrier’s flagship Rosé is a blend of 80% Pinot Noir (on the skins) and 20% Chardonnay vinified together that has only been bottled seven times since 1982. From the very first taste, the 2004 is utterly spectacular. Rich, ample and vertical in feel, the 2004 is…

Dom Pérignon in Three Acts (Nov 2017)

Like the 1969 P3 in this tasting, the 1971 Dom Pérignon P3 is dense, powerful and quite vinous in style. A huge, explosive Champagne with fruit that nearly covers the mousse, the 1971 has enough depth to drink well for another decade, maybe more. I have a slight preference for the Œnothèque (P2) in this…

2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

(frost cut production by 30% in 2016): Pale yellow. The closest of these premier crus to exotic on the nose, offering scents of ripe peach, hazelnut and honey. Compellingly rich and sweet on the palate, but with its sucrosité leavened by a distinctly sappy quality. As dense and broad as this wine is, it also…

Vinous Table: Marea, New York, NY (Jul 2022)

Roederer’s 2002 Cristal, from magnum, is just off the charts. What else is there to say? The magnum format is so well-suited to Champagne. As opposed to still wines, which are just aged in glass, for Champagne, the secondary fermentation takes place in the glass. I am convinced that is a major part of what…

Champagne – 2019 Fall Releases (Dec 2019)

The 2002 Cristal is now entering its first plateau of maturity, which makes it a terrific Champagne for drinking now. Hints of apricot, brioche, lemon confit, honey, hazelnut, baked apple tart and spice give the 2002 striking layers of nuance. Rich and generous, the 2002 show plenty of the natural opulence of the year and…