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Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er Cru has a very intense and opulent bouquet that is currently less expressive than the Les Suchots, but I find more breeding and delineation here, more terroir expression. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, wonderful structure, certainly the spiciest as if there is some whole bunch in here…

The 2015 Red Burgundies: You Are So Going To Want Them (Jan 2017)

(13.3% natural alcohol, from a healthy crop level of 42 hectoliters per hectare): Bright dark red. Lovely lift to the aromas of blackberry, licorice and violet. At once fine-grained and penetrating, even a bit unyielding today, showing strong medicinal reserve to its black fruit, menthol and licorice flavors. Still, this is harmonious from the outset,…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru is matured in three barrels of which two are new. It has a beautifully focused bouquet with dark cherries, blackcurrant, violet petals and crushed stone. The palate is medium-bodied with spicy black cherry and red fruit, blood orange and cracked black pepper. Very fine depth here, firm grip, very persistent…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru includes around three-quarters whole bunch fruit and is matured in one-third new oak. Despite the small reduction on the nose, there is clearly impressive intensity in this Grand Cru, but it is more backward and more broody than the 2018 tasted from barrel 12 months earlier. With time, there are…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru has a very well-defined bouquet of red berry fruit laced with undergrowth, rose petals, incense and hints of white pepper; so much vigor here. The palate is medium-bodied with filigreed tannins, wonderful tension and great length on the finish. This is a class apart, an intellectual and downright delicious…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru has a magnificent bouquet. Dark berry fruit, crushed roses, minerals and incense soar from the glass. Wonderful definition. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, dark berry fruit laced with white pepper and allspice, building in the mouth to a multi-dimensional finish that lingers tenderly. Outstanding. Tasted blind at…