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Thrice Is Nice: Bordeaux 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Clinet has held on to that precious bouquet with heady scents of black plum, cassis and fresh fig, more blue fruit percolating through with time. Remarkably, it retains fine delineation and disguises that payload of 15% alcohol. The palate is intense on the entry, quite structured, and granular in texture, with a healthy…

2020 Bordeaux En Primeur: Almost Back to Normal (Jun 2021)

The 2020 Clinet is a gorgeous, vivid Pomerol. Today, the Clinet feels a bit closed in on itself, but has terrific energy and plenty of drive. Dark cherry jam, mocha, rose petal, new leather and tobacco start to open with a bit of time in the glass. Readers will have to be patient here. There…

2016 Bordeaux…It’s All In The Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Pontet-Canet is absolutely breathtaking. Powerful, ample and racy in the glass, the 2016 is one of the most exquisitely well-balanced young Pontet-Canets I can remember tasting. Savory, high-toned aromatics and brisk mineral notes lend energy and delineation as this vivid wonderfully alive wine opens up in the glass. The flavors are dark and…

Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux Blind (Aug 2020)

The 2016 Pontet-Canet yet again suggested that there is inconsistency between bottles. It has a decadent bouquet of precocious red fruit laced with truffle, garrigue and meat juice aromas – not the most typical Pauillac that you will find, though not unattractive. The palate is full-bodied with soft, rounded tannins and slightly lower perceived acidity…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Bright full ruby. Pure, perfumed aromas of cassis and violet. Dense and tactile in the mouth; a huge, chewy wine with major extract but also considerable refinement. Almost painfully backward today, and a bit less perfumed than it was in the year or so after the bottling, but the huge tannins show no hardness. Another…

Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)

The 1996 Château Margaux stands as one of the pinnacles during Paul Pontallier’s illustrious tenure. I remember it dazzling out of barrel, perhaps my first memory of tasting wine at that prenatal stage. It has retained the fabulous tension and freshness on the nose, every atom infused with mineralité, subtle pressed flower/violet scents unfurling with…