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2006 and 2005 White Burgundies (Sep 2007)

Quite closed on the nose, hinting at flowers and toast. Leanish, precise and tightly wound, with terrific focus to the citrus, floral and mineral flavors. This really leaves the salivary glands vibrating on the long finish. Very firm but not hard. If this was acidified, it has been done very cleverly. Wonderfully fresh and delineated…

The Best New Wines from Spain, Part 2 (Sep 2009)

(70% tempranillo, 20% garnacha and the rest mazuelo and graciano) Bright ruby. Vibrant, seductive perfume of black raspberry, powdered rose, anise and minerals. Weighty but lively cherry and dark berry flavors are brightened by zesty minerals, picking up a candied licorice quality with aeration. The finish repeats the deep dark berry note and leaves exotic…

Focus on Sauternes (Jul 1998)

Fairly pale yellow. Vibrant aromas of pineapple, grapefruit, licorice, and fresh herbs, plus a petrolly riesling-like pungency. Moderately thick, racy and stylish, with flavors similar to the aromas. Very youthful and given clarity by sound acidity. The petrol note carries through to the long, bright aftertaste. Very ’88, and very Barsac.

Vinous Table: The Sportsman, Kent, UK (Sep 2022)

The infamous 1981 Châteauneuf-du-Pape from Château de Beaucastel is certainly not the most bretty example that I have encountered, maybe just a little tired on the nose compared to the 1978 Télégraphe. The palate is much better with roasted chestnut and game infusing the leather black fruit and displaying tremendous depth on the finish. Bottles…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Cheval Blanc (Oct 2011)

(40 h/h; 12.5% alcohol): Bright red. Very pure floral nose with enticing aromas of redcurrant, violet, minerals, licorice, lead pencil and coffee: very cabernet franc! Then linear, pure and juicy, with pristine flavors of red berries, dark plum, minerals and coffee. This midweight finishes clean and smoothly tannic, offering amazing balance and an impression of…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1988 Léoville Las-Cases is a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot (this bottled had been re-corked at the property in 2014). This was a late harvest that began on 4 October and lasted for 12 days. This seems to have matured on the nose since I…