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Champagne: The 2023 Spring Preview (May 2023)

Bollinger’s 2008 R.D. is a powerful, vinous Champagne. Apricot, dried pear, tangerine oil, hazelnut, dried flowers, chamomile and brioche all race across the palate. The 2008 boasts notable depth and textural intensity, with a feeling of phenolic, almost tannin-driven grip from the Pinot that propels the finish. At times the R.D. is quite exotic, even…

2005 and 2004 Red Burgundies (Mar 2007)

(est. 750-$950) Good dark red. Deeply pitched aromas of cassis, earth and truffle (underground aromas while the Romanee-Saint-Vivant is more ethereal, says Villaine). Fat and broad in the mouth, with a strong earth-and-rocks character. Doesn’t show quite the lift of the RSV but this is even sweeter. Finishes with substantial dusty tannins. I suspect I’m…

The 2009 White Burgundies (Aug 2011)

The 2009 Puligny-Montrachet Folatières is at once brighter and flashier than the Clavoillons. I especially like the vibrant minerality here. Yellow stone fruits flesh out the mid-palate and finish nicely in this expressive, radiant wine that captures the essence of the year. Remy comments that he tends to use barrels with lower levels of toast…

2010 and 2009 White Burgundies (Sep 2011)

Bright yellow. Lovely floral lift to the soft citrus and vanilla aromas. Plenty of fruit here too, but this shows better grip and lift than the Clavoillons, more life in the mouth. At once lush and energetic, and firm and long on the aftertaste. Less obviously 2009 in style.

2001 Red Wines from the Rhone Valley (Jan 2004)

Saturated red-ruby color. Brooding aromas of blackcurrant, licorice, gunflint and spices. Thick, dense and brooding, with sweet cassis, pepper and tobacco flavors framed and carried by firm acidity. Comes across as very ripe and broad, but this bottle at least does not show the porty character that some past vintages have displayed at the same…

Bordeaux 2020: Saving the Best for Last (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Blason de L’Évangile is a plump, juicy wine that very much reflects the extroverted side of the year. Super-ripe black cherry, plum, licorice, cloves and espresso are all dialed up. A racy, extroverted Pomerol, the 2020 Blason is a total pleasure bomb. This is the first time the Blason was partly aged in…