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The Marital Margaux: d’Issan 1945-2015 (Jul 2018)

The 1985 d’Issan has a slightly deeper appearance compared to the 1983 and the bouquet has lasted far better: gravel-tinged red berry fruit, sage, dried blood and hints of cured meat. I would not describe it as animally though, it is galloping in that direction, possibly indicating some presence of brettanomyces. The palate is medium-bodied…

Focus on California (May 2000)

Saturated ruby-red. Multidimensional nose offers a panoply of scents: black plum, currant, leather, smoked meat, cigar ash, lead pencil, sandalwood, dark chocolate, licorice, brown sugar. Very bright and sharply defined; flavors of plum, leather, hot stones and lead pencil. An impeccably balanced wine of compelling sweetness, but rather dominated today by its structure. Strong, thoroughly…

Vintage Port – The 2016 Declaration (Jun 2018)

The 1963 Croft Vintage Port comes from a pivotal vintage in the Douro. The nose is well defined and quite feminine with an exotic element in the background that never comes to the fore. The palate displays good concentration and balance but is let down in terms of complexity and length, a Croft “playing it…

The Best of Rioja and Ribera del Duero (Nov 1999)

Deep, bright ruby. Extraordinarily complex, lively nose combines black raspberry, bitter chocolate, nutmeg and an intriguing suggestion of roasted herbs. Amazingly rich and smooth in the mouth; truly explosive fruit offers superb vinosity and snap. Like liquid velvet but with great clarity of flavor. Builds in intensity and seems to grow thicker on the back…

Champagne’s Golden Age (Nov 2015)

The 2005 Brut La Grande Année hasn’t changed much since I last tasted it about six months ago. If anything, the 2005 is a bit less interesting than it was when I first tasted it. Soft, forward and heading towards maturity, the 2005 is a Champagne to drink now and over the next few years….

This Is Not Morey-Saint-Denis (March 2019)

The 1993 Clos-de-la-Roche Grand Cru has an exquisite bouquet, very well defined with cranberry, crushed stone and undergrowth scents. Perhaps I would have liked to see more fruit. The palate shows quite a bit of stem addition. There is certainly some hardness here compared to other 1993s, so it does not translate the elegance of…