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A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2013 Pichon Baron has a tight-knit nose, light black fruit, leather and loamy scents, becoming more floral with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, quite peppery, more like Szechuan pepper insofar that it leaves a pleasant tingle on the tongue. Short though. Drink now and over the next four to six years….

His Father’s Son: Grand Mayne 1955-2011 (May 2021)

The 2005 Grand Mayne has a broody bouquet, quite closed compared to the 2004 with black rather than red fruit, laced with chimney soot and tobacco scents. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannins, bold structure and superb acidity keeping everything tied together. Plenty of energy here, white pepper and clove notes towards the vibrant,…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Full ruby-red. Superripe aromas of kirsch and bitter chocolate; slightly porty. Then dense and chocolatey in the mouth, with very ripe currant flavor firmed by menthol and sound acidity. I like the sugar/acid balance here, but the wine comes across as a bit beefy and aggressive, and the finish shows a dry edge. Seems rather…

Masseto Retrospective at the Country Music Hall of Fame (Jan 2020)

The real surprise in this flight, the 1993 Masseto comes out of nowhere. Explosive and remarkably deep for a wine of its age, the 1993 is vibrant and so expressive. Hints of leather, game, smoke, dark fruit, spice and chocolate open up in the glass, but more than anything else I am simply struck by…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

It has been several years since I last tasted the 1970 Haut-Brion. Unfortunately, one bottle opened in Burgundy was a little oxidized, though another was more representative. Even so, it was not a great period for the estate, then owned by the Woltners. Plenty of dusty black fruit on the nose infused with black olive,…

Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1921-2016 (Oct 2017)

A host of Cabernet Sauvignon-infused aromas make a strong opening statement in the 1978 Pichon Lalande. There is certainly no shortage of power or character. If anything, the 1978 is perhaps a bit lacking in mid-palate depth, which gives it an element of austerity. Aside from that small critique, the 1978 is deeply expressive and…