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The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)

Enticing aromas of boysenberry, cedar, espresso and roasted oak. Sweet, lush and broad in the mouth, with sappy berry and espresso flavors. This boasts the pliant texture and near-perfect balance of the vintage’s best examples. Finishes with a fine dusting of tannins. Like so many 2001s, this is easy to taste today but may well…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Bright full ruby. Pure, perfumed aromas of cassis and violet. Dense and tactile in the mouth; a huge, chewy wine with major extract but also considerable refinement. Almost painfully backward today, and a bit less perfumed than it was in the year or so after the bottling, but the huge tannins show no hardness. Another…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Full ruby. Vibrant aromas of crushed blueberry and bitter chocolate are further brightened by a violet quality. Dense, sweet and lush, with terrific depth and freshness to its dark fruit, mineral and violet flavors. This is really creamy-rich for the vintage. Finishes with smooth, chocolatey tannins and outstanding palate-saturating length. It’s hard to imagine how…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Meursault Charmes 1er Cru has a lifted nose, although for me there is a bit too much oak that occludes the fruit profile at the moment. Leaving the glass aside for five minutes, a light wet clay scent develops. The palate is based around what clearly must be a low pH, full of…

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2000 Léoville Las Cases is a vintage that I have encountered a dozen or so times. Jean-Hubert Délon oversaw a magnificent wine in this year. The nose of graphite-infused black fruit is still vivacious and very complex, very Pauillac-like, and supremely well focused. Hints of licorice develop with aeration. The medium-bodied palate features sappy…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Full, bright ruby. Superripe aromas of roasted currant, violet and black licorice. Powerful and highly aromatic in the mouth, with brooding black fruit, violet and chocolate flavors. A step up in acidity from the Clos du Marquis, giving the wine great vinosity and cut. Extremely long and aromatic on the finish, with big, chewy, thoroughly…