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Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

So far I have tasted two bottles of the 2011 Comtes de Champagne. The first was strongly vegetal, with angular contours and virtually no fruit; the second was unyielding and compact, with no mid-palate and no finish to speak of. To say the 2011 is far off the mark would be a massive understatement. Perhaps,…

The 2022 Champagne New Releases (May 2022)

The 2011 Comtes de Champagne remains a challenging wine. Short, compact and lacking in complexity, the 2011 just doesn’t have that much to offer. On a more positive note, there’s good freshness and fewer of the vegetal notes I saw a few years ago. This is the best showing yet for the 2011.

Focus on Champagne (Nov 1998)

Pale color. Youthful aromas of lemon, quince, pear, toast, spice, chalk and red berries. Big, sweet and seamless, if a bit clenched in the early going. A powerful, very young wine whose fruit builds slowly in the mouth and explodes on the finish. A charry note contributes to its complexity. Possesses amazing depth of fruit,…

Chianti Classico & Neighbors: Looking at the 2020s and 2019s (Jul 2022)

The 2019 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Roncicone shows the more ethereal side of Sangiovese in this vintage. Sweet red cherry, mint, crushed rocks, orange peel and rosewater lend notable aromatic brilliance. Deceptive in its mid-weight, translucent personality, the Roncicone delivers plenty of intensity.

Chianti Classico & Neighbors: Looking at the 2020s and 2019s (Jul 2022)

The 2019 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione CeniPrimo is a very pretty wine. Bright and translucent, with terrific energy, the 2019 has so much to offer. Sweet floral notes, kirsch, spice, rose petal and French oak are nicely delineated throughout. I very much like the energy here. The new oak is perhaps a bit strong, but…

Chianti Classico & Neighbors: Looking at the 2020s and 2019s (Jul 2022)

The 2019 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Colledilà is another terrific wine in this range from Brolio. It marries energy with depth, showing plenty of nuance as well as character. Dark red cherry/plum fruit, mocha, tobacco, blood orange and incense all run through this deep, fleshy Gran Selezione. The 2019 Colledilà is one of the best…