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Taittinger: Comtes de Champagne 1971— 1998 (Aug 2010)

The 1989 Comtes de Champagne is darker in color than the 1988 and also quite a bit more forward. Candied orange peel, spices and caramel suggest it is on a fairly quick path. Today the 1989 is most impressive for its generous texture and complete, developed personality. This won’t make old bones, but it is…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

(13.8% natural alcohol) Bright ruby-red. Superripe berry and chocolate aromas, with a whiff of surmaturite Fat, sweet and large-scaled, offering extraordinary volume and an almost syrupy thickness leavened by surprisingly sound acidity. This saturates the entire mouth yet manages to avoid coming off as heavy. Finishes very long and sweet, with thoroughly integrated tannins. The…

An Exploration of Time: Gruaud Larose 1831-2018 (Mar 2024)

The 2005 Gruaud Larose was tasted from two bottles at the estate as the first was corked. The second offers intense black fruit with juniper and cedar notes, but something prevents it from blossoming, like the 1982, for example. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit. It’s a broad-shouldered Gruaud with a firm grip,…

An Exploration of Time: Gruaud Larose 1831-2018 (Mar 2024)

The 2005 Gruaud Larose was tasted from two bottles at the estate as the first was corked. The second offers intense black fruit with juniper and cedar notes, but something prevents it from blossoming, like the 1982, for example. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit. It’s a broad-shouldered Gruaud with a firm grip,…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2003 Mouton Rothschild has a powerful nose with slightly smudged summer fruit, leather, dates, forest floors and a touch of eucalyptus. The palate is medium-bodied and fleshy, with powdery tannins and better acidity than the Clerc Milon. It’s quite tertiary, with just a little VA on the roasted coffee bean finish. The question is…

Vinous Table: Ristorante Osteria Carletti, Bedano, Switzerland (Mar 2018)

The 2001 vintage in Piedmont has long been a favorite of mine. Bruno Giacosa’s 2001 Barolo Riserva Le Rocche del Falletto is explosive and decadently rich from the very first taste. The 2001 is arguably the last truly classic vintage for the Rocche Red Label. To be sure, the 2004, 2005 and 2007 are all…