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Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Canon was picked September 16 to October 6 and matured in 50% new oak for a planned 16–18 months. Around 70% of the vineyard produced the normal yield, which underwent a 50% deselection, yet it still yielded 40hL/ha because the vines did not suffer stress. After mildew, any bunches that showed damage on…

2021 Bordeaux: L’Enfant Terrible (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Canon shows just how magical this site is. Vertical and explosive in feel, with tons of pure power, it impresses with its intensity, drive and super-classic profile. Bright saline notes and vibrant tannins give the 2021 a feeling of energy that only gains momentum with time in the glass. It’s not an easy…

2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Canon has a clean and precise bouquet. Redcurrant, cranberry and wild strawberry scents gradually emerge, perhaps a little more tertiary than previous vintages. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins—a strict Canon, quite saline with just a hint of licorice coming through toward the finish. Although it does not reach the imperial heights…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Volnay Santenots 1er Cru was one of the earliest ripening in this vintage. Precocious black cherries and a touch of kirsch on the nose, the palate is sweet and chewy, candied red fruit laced with orange peel with an almost Gamay-like on the finish (there’s none in here of course.) That’s probably because…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2001)

Walnut, hazelnut, butterscotch and a Tokaji-like suggestion of damp stone on the yeasty nose. Brisk in texture, quite dry and distinctly mature, with a nut skin note and slightly sour-edged acidity. But concentrated and firmly structured. A classic dinner table bubbly. Bollinger fans appreciate the mature flavors of this Champagne, but my sample seemed a…

2021 Bordeaux: L’Enfant Terrible (Feb 2024)

The 2021 La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc marries the natural energy of this cool year with lovely mid-palate creaminess and texture. Understated yet persistent, the 2021 presents a gorgeous display of pear, white flowers and mint, along with a subtle touch of oak that frames the finish. Today, the 2021 is quite a bit less expressive…