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1999, 1998 and 1997 Bordeaux (May 2000)

Bright full red. Cool, rather subdued aromas of cherry, currant and mint. Reasonably ripe but with modest sweetness and texture. With a bit less middle-palate extract to buffer its tannins, the finish comes across as a bit bony, even green.

1999, 1998 and 1997 Bordeaux (May 2000)

Bright full red. Cool, rather subdued aromas of cherry, currant and mint. Reasonably ripe but with modest sweetness and texture. With a bit less middle-palate extract to buffer its tannins, the finish comes across as a bit bony, even green.

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Chambertin Grand Cru is initially tightly wound on the nose, opening gradually to reveal blackberry, raspberry, orange pith and rose petal scents; more sous-bois character develops with time. The palate is very harmonious with a lightly spiced entry. A little oak remains to be subsumed, but there is fine depth on the finish,…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Chambolle-Musigny Les Combottes 1er Cru was a little more closed on the nose compared to the other cuvées, gradually unfolding with dark berry fruit, crushed stone, briary and a touch of graphite. The palate is beautifully defined with fine-grain, pliant tannins, quite tensile from start to finish with a perfectly proportioned finish. Wonderful.

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru contains around 65% whole bunch. This has wonderful precision on the nose, very perfumed and floral at first though with time those scents of crushed limestone and oyster shell start percolating through. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins, pitch-perfect acidity, bursting of energy and tension with a judicious…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Vosne-Romanée Cros Parantoux 1er Cru, which I learned takes under an hour to pick, was showing just a little reduction on the nose, which is quite savory compared to the Aux Brûlées; it develops light ferrous notes with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and ebullient red berry fruit suffused with…