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2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

Bright, light, green-tinged yellow. Musky limey lift to the fruit-driven aromas of lemon and mandarin orange. Suave, seamless wine with lovely richness and no edges, but very youthful and more citrussy than the Champ-Canet, showing less easy sweetness. This concentrated, nicely delineated wine mounts slowly and lingers on the elegant, vibrant aftertaste. A lovely sexy…

Conterno Monfortino Magnum Vertical: 1970-2014 (Feb 2021)

The 2005 Barolo Riserva Monfortino, also the product of a cool vintage, comes across as a bit nervous today. It is an absolute infant by Monfortino standards, a wine that automatically forces the mind to project into the future. Readers lucky enough to own it will want to wait for at least a few years….

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2009)

Good deep red. Tight but delicate and precise nose hints at violet and minerals; strong evidence of calcaire here. Then suave, silky and juicy, with bright acids framing the subtly sweet dark fruit flavors. More about perfume than sheer structure or depth, but then this wonderfully intense wine is currently in a rather imploded stage….

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Medium ruby. Expressive aromas of black raspberry, Cuban tobacco and grilled nuts; a bit more red fruit in character than either the 2000 or the 2001. Silky, seamless and enveloping, but the wine’s excellent vinosity gives its creamy fruit very good definition. Consistent from start to finish. Tannins are substantial but fine, allowing the fruit…

Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)

The 1999 Chateau Margaux is another overlooked vintage that transcends the growing season. This example, which is from an ex-château magnum, is delightful. It offers a slightly more fruit-driven, heartier bouquet than you would presuppose from a supposed mediocre season. Black fruit is laced with graphite and clove and blossoms with aeration while maintaining superb…

Past Becomes Now: Lafite-Rothschild 1874-1982 (Apr 2024)

The 1982 Lafite-Rothschild was a bottle with impeccable provenance, having been stored at the renowned La Tour d’Argent restaurant for its entire lifetime before being auctioned. Backward and youthful on the nose, this is intense with black fruit infused with cedar and graphite, gaining delineation with time yet still warning that it’s being broached too…