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2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

The 2021 Lynch Bages is a brooding wine. Black cherry, leather, spice and menthol add to its decidedly somber personality. It will be interesting to see how the 2021 develops during élevage. Today, the 2021 comes across as dark and heavy, with the oak not fully integrated, and less of the suave finesse that is…

2019 Bordeaux from Bottle: The Two Towers (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Cos d'Estournel is a deep, powerful wine. That has been true on both times I have tasted it recently. Readers will have to be patient. Those who can afford it will be rewarded with a towering, statuesque Saint-Estèphe. With a bit of air the fruit starts to emerge, but this is a very…

Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Cos d'Estournel was picked from September 23 to October 7 at 43hL/ha, matured in a judicious 55% new oak, and bottled in July 2021 by gravity. It is more backward on the nose, and there’s nothing wrong with that for a Grand Vin. Biding its time, it opens to deliver lovely, very pure…

Bordeaux 2019: The Southwold Tasting (Feb 2023)

The 2019 Cos d’Estournel is tasted from two bottles, the first not representative. The second has a perfumed bouquet with blackberry and raspberry fruit, sous-bois, and light spicy scents. The palate is medium-bodied with finely sculpted tannins, fresh and tensile, gradually building with a mineral-rich and very persistent finish. Vibrant and energetic, this Cos d’Estournel…

Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Batailley was picked September 30 to October 15 and matured in 55–60% new oak. It has a well-defined, focused bouquet, a quintessential Pauillac nose of black fruit infused with cedar and mint. The palate is medium-bodied with a touch of black pepper on the entry and delivers good depth and fine grip. This…

2021 Bordeaux: L’Enfant Terrible (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Batailley is quite the powerhouse. Even so, it offers fine balance. Broad tannins enshroud a core of dark-toned fruit, licorice, spice, black olive, lavender and sage. Batailley is a rare 2021 that is going to need time to come together. Its intensity, breadth and overall persistence are impressive. There’s real textural resonance here,…