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Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Purple ruby. Very pure aromas of fresh blackberry, graphite and minerals are quite Margaux-like in a slightly riper, merlot-dominated way. Fresh and clean on the palate, with vibrant black fruit flavors. The floral finish offers lovely lift and sneaky persistence, with a lingering hint of coffee. Nicely refined and balanced wine, and one of the…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good ruby-red. Currant and game on the slightly jammy nose. Sweet, rich and suave, with good intensity to the game, jammy fruit and nutty oak flavors. In a soft style, finishing with substantial ripe tannins.

Cellar Favorite: The Fives at Château d’Issan (Mar 2021)

The 2005 Château d’Issan is one that Emmanuel Cruse describes as “the first great wine of the modern era”. It has more Merlot than previous vintages as some plots were replanted. It also displays more fruit intensity on the nose compared to the 2000. Blackberry and briary, wilted rose petals and violets are nicely focused,…

2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

The 2021 Branaire-Ducru is sleek, elegant and nuanced. There is more Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc in the blend than in the 2018-2020 period, when the Merlots were especially successful. As a result, the aromatics are absolutely alluring, but the wine is much less forthcoming on the palate. At 12.9% alcohol, the 2021 is a…

Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Branaire Ducru was picked from September 24, albeit slowly, until October 14, at 32hL/ha. It has quite an intense, dare I say precocious bouquet of bold brambly red fruit that eventually settles in the glass and turns darker. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit and a touch of black pepper and…

2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Branaire Ducru, one of the smallest crops in recent years (32.5hL/ha) was bottled in early June. It has a clean and precise bouquet: blackberry, cedar, light pencil box scents and just a faint touch of undergrowth. It’s certainly classic in style, yet displays more precision than you would have found in a Branaire…