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Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(38 hectoliters per hectare produced; vinified with 85% whole clusters, down from a normal 100%; aging in 50% new oak, vs. 33% for the premier cru and village wine): Healthy dark red. Captivating perfume of red berries, spices and flowers lifted by a sexy herbal element from the stems. Silky, dense and concentrated, showing terrific…

2016 Bordeaux…It’s All In The Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Domaine de Chevalier is a thrilling wine. Dense and beautifully layered, the 2016 is also quite a bit richer than it usually is. Cabernet Sauvignon aromatics and structure pulse through the wine. The red-toned fruit is incredibly primary at this stage. Readers should be prepared to cellar the 2016 for at least a…

The DBs: Bordeaux 2016 In Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Domaine de Chevalier is a classy affair on the nose: nothing ambitious or self-aggrandizing, just beautifully defined black fruit laced with pine needles and wilted irises. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, filigreed tannin, pitch-perfect acidity and a captivating sense of mineralité toward the persistent finish. This is an outstanding Domaine…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Haut-Brion is an infant, but its balance and potential are both amply evident. Rich and deep in the glass, the 2018 opens to reveal tremendous complexity and nuance, qualities that only grow with time. The 2018 is not a huge Haut-Brion, nor is it massively endowed, but it is so elegant and classy….

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Haut-Brion was double decanted, assessed after two hours and then over 24 hours, initially blind against La Mission Haut-Brion. There is more red fruit on the nose compared to the La Mission Haut-Brion, wild strawberries commingling with raspberry, light tobacco scents and shavings of black truffle. The palate is medium-bodied and beautifully balanced…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Larcis Ducasse is one of the great surprises of this retrospective of nearly two hundred 2005s. A wine of shocking intensity, power and structure, the 2005 is still an infant. Inky dark fruit, gravel, lavender, leather and spice all hit the palate. In the glass, the 2005 is marvelously deep, rich and dark….