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1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full medium red. Spicy aromas of redcurrant, strawberry and plum. Ripe, lush and gentle, with a mineral character contributing to the wine impression of structure and leavening the wine’s sweetness. Very long, ripely tannic finish shows slightly elevated alcohol but comes across as firm nonetheless. (A second sample showed aromas of currant, tobacco, coconut and…

The Wines That Shaped My Life (Mar 2022)

The 1983 Pichon Comtesse de Lalande is now fully mature and expressive. Pretty red berry fruit mingles with graphite and cigar box. This bottle shows a little camphor with aeration. The palate is supremely well balanced, less powerful than a few years ago, harmonious and smooth, unpretentious and quintessentially Pauillac with its pencil shaving-tinged, elegant…

The Year of Jazz & Wine: 1959 (Nov 2020)

The 1959 Latour came directly from the château reserves in magnum. Perhaps because of its impeccable provenance, it is deep, almost opaque in color. The bouquet is stunning: black cherries, blackberry, freshly tilled earth, cedar and mint, pure and captivating. The palate is still unerringly youthful with vibrant black fruit, fabulous purity and multi-layered black…

The Year of Jazz & Wine: 1959 (Nov 2020)

The 1959 Latour has always been one of my favorite vintages. Deep in color surprisingly little ageing on the rim, it has an opulent, for this First Growth possibly “decadent” bouquet with layers of black fruit infused with cedar and mint, a touch of grey ash emerging with aeration. The palate is sweet and comely…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full medium ruby. Highly perfumed aromas of sour cherry candy, currant syrup, violet and minerals. Thick and rich, but a bit unyielding owing to its solid spine of acidity. Still rather youthfully austere on the finish.

Domaine Armand Rousseau: Chambertin 1988 – 2002 (Aug 2017)

The 1990 Chambertin appears to be at an early plateau of maturity where the tannins have softened and the flavors are starting to show signs of dried stone fruit, leather, tobacco and spice overtones. There is lovely silkiness and nuance throughout, but less of the visceral thrill that is found in many other wines in…